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During my recent trip back to HKG, I decided to try a new shirt maker which I will disclose once I am happy. As mentioned many a times, bespoke is a journey & not an over night success.

What I can say is that this particular maker has a formidable reputation & unfortunately this comes at a price. For example, the price is more than 3 times for a shirt made in the same cloth as my usual tailor.

In this case I chose a light blue end-on-end Thomas Mason “Silver Line” & requested 3 variations to be made.

I will wear & launder before any adjustments to be made when I am back in a few weeks.

So the journey started with 2 sessions:

1st Session - measurements, cloth decision, collar styles (button down + 2 button band, “Italian” spread + 2 button band & semi-spread + 1 button band. All with no collar gap), cuff style (all single + 2 button + angled opening), body (plain back + 2 rear darts), split yoke, 3.5 mm mother of pearl buttons, no fusing for cuffs or collars & finally my chinese name hand stitched (this is always a good test).

2nd Session (1 week later) - semi finished fitting & further measurements.

Delivery in a few days after.

I will post some macros of the details later.

So for today (after 10 hours in the saddle) it is the “semi-spread” & my initial notes:

  1. to my eye the collar points need another 1cm as I don’t like to see a gap between the shirt collar & lapel of coat
  2. embroidery is to BIG, needs to be scaled back at least 15%
  3. back darts need more shape
  4. length of sleeves perfect after 2 hot washes, but will know more in time when sending to commercial cleaners
  5. length of body is long but perfect for ensuring the shirt stays tucked in
  6. cloth has held up (must be my ironing skills - no starch just water)
  7. finish is MostExerent

What do you think?

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