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wisco42 / I always have trouble with the tailoring of my shoulders and upper arms on suit jackets. You seem to have mastered this aspect of your jackets. Any advice to take to my tailor?

I actually have very bad shoulders (sloped). So bad that some of the better known tailors in HKG would not take my $$$.

What I have learn’t over the last 12 months is to make sure that you are realistic in what will work for you & this takes time - what we see in magazines & TV is not real, truth be told there is more pinning behind the scenes that designers would let you believe.

What I have also learn’t is that tailors are trades people & not designers or stylists & vice a versa.

I mentioned a few months back an analogy between an architect, interior designer, structural engineer & builder. They all need to respect each others specialty.

So in my case, I had to accept that not all styles suit my sloped shoulder & to be very precise & patient with my tailor. It did not happen over night. In fact there were at least 5 jackets before we the tailor & I started to understand what worked for me.

A little known fact about tailors in Asia, they make clothing in 2D not 3D. They have good technique but no practical experience. To be fair though, over the last 20 or so years they get customers that see value in a suit made in 24 hours & hence get lazy. Also the customers tend to be not that experienced in tailored clothing so do not push.

Here is a good example of fit & cut that even the best designers & labels neglect - movement. Walk into any shop & try the jacket. Looks good right?

The sales associate would have made you feel good, waxed on about the cloth & the designer etc..

Then try lifting your arms - what happens.. Restriction? The shoulders do not sit flat? The upper body moves against the direction?

So what do they say? That’s the design or try a larger size.

WTF!

Here is my favourite test: sit down in the jacket & see what happens.

Hint, there will be bunching across the shoulder, tightness at the biceps & the collar will not sit flat.

Chances are they would not even have noticed this.

Chances are they wear bad shoes - let’s leave this for another day LOL.

So the long answer as there is no short answer, if you don’t have access to a good tailor then take your time & try another brand. If anything, stay away from designer labels as they are the worst.

Sheesh - are you still awake?

  1. mostexerent posted this