RAW denim or WARM Cordovan.. What smells better? 

Today was one of those days that I said FUK THE RULES & chose to wear dungarees!

Dungarees? Grown Man jeans not Dad Jeans or Gen Y/X2.0 “drop crotch”, “skinny leg”, “drop ass” Hipsters - the difference:

  • Premium RAW denim not bagged out stone-washed or some bizarre acid wash
  • Straighter leg
  • Higher rise as Grown Men tuck their shirts in
  • Pin roll cuffs

* these are from ACL x Tellason & IMO great fitting jeans for me. I will do a post about these at a later date.

So this week we have discussed back fit & balance, so why not finish with the same.

This 280gm linen from Ariston is ideal when the season starts to warm up (as it is down here in the Antipodes). For example we are in the last days of winter & the weather is hovering between 19c - 22c at midday with cooler mornings & evenings.

Medium to heavy weight linen offers great drape as well as very mouldable to ones body. Being heavier, the creases are also not as hard.

Do yourself a favour & investigate in a medium to heavier weight linen.

Details | SC - P Johnson in Ariston linen for GW | Shirt - P Johnson in Thomas Mason twill for GW | PS - Drakes for The Armoury | Socks - Pantherella | Moccasins - Carmina for The Armoury | Bag - Ettinger “Wimbledon” for The Armoury

From the archives (approx. Nov 2011) as resurrected by a new follower

History lesson (from July 2011): I still get messages/emails about the pros/cons with MTO v bespoke.

mostexerent:

Friday Business Casual in Blaze Orange

5th day of rain - EXERENT!

Details | Umbrella - Fox for GW | Pocket Square - Drake’s Irish linen | Jacket (part of suit) - @PJohnson in Loro Piana for GW | Shirt - @AscotChang in Thomas Mason for GW | Tie - Hermes knit tie | DubMunks - Edward Green “Westminster” Mole Suede for @LeatherSoul for GW | Bag - Ettinger for @TheArmoury

* take note of the shape & undisturbed line of the jacket even whilst holding up an umbrella.

There is nothing wrong with MTO if the tailor/fitter knows what he is doing which is unfortunately a rarity today. I have seen more “car wrecks” from E. Zegna “Su Misura” than a roller derby & they average more than 3 times the cost of a P Johnson MTO commission.

What time is it? Why are we 2nd month into Autumn & the weather today is going to be 29c..

Why am I wearing a coat - ask her..

So many #FirstWorldProblems today.

Details | Jacket (part of suit) - P Johnson French navy cotton “Solaro” for GW | Pocket Square - Drakes for The Armoury |Shirt - Ascot Chang in vintage private reserve Drake’s of London cloth for GW | Jeans - Rapha | Belt | bespoke crocodile loop & ring belt | Hoofs - classic almond toe Gucci loafers | Bag - Ettinger for The Armoury

She said you are taking me somewhere that needs a jacket tonight.. 
Details | Jacket (part of suit) - P Johnson French navy cotton “Solaro” for GW | Pocket Square - Drakes for The Armoury |Shirt - Ascot Chang in vintage private reserve Drake’s of London cloth for GW | Jeans - Rapha | Hoofs - classic almond toe Gucci loafers
#FirstWorldDatingProblems
(Taken with Instagram at The Bunker)

She said you are taking me somewhere that needs a jacket tonight..

Details | Jacket (part of suit) - P Johnson French navy cotton “Solaro” for GW | Pocket Square - Drakes for The Armoury |Shirt - Ascot Chang in vintage private reserve Drake’s of London cloth for GW | Jeans - Rapha | Hoofs - classic almond toe Gucci loafers

#FirstWorldDatingProblems

(Taken with Instagram at The Bunker)

& Oldie but a goodie.. 

I find it quite amusing when old posts are found & reblogged by others..

* I miss this umbrella.

mostexerent:

Cows don’t need umbrellas..

So don’t worry about wearing leather shoes in the rain - just worry after.

  • Air dry in a well ventilated area
  • Shoe trees, lasted (made & shaped for said shoe) shoe trees are better
  • Suede - always brush after each wearing, in one direction only
  • Calf - brush down then apply shoe cream whilst the leather is warm. Better absorption
  • Shell Cordovan - brush down
  • Never wear same pair of shoes 2 days in a row
  • Once a month apply a wax for protection
  • 3M Scotch Guard or any silicone spray - only lasts 2 wears before one needs to reapply. Also can change the colour of suede or worse, seal the pores.. DON’T DO IT..

To shine or not?

Some like the high polish (such as Ethan), whilst other prefer a natural lustre (such as I). I won’t get into what is involved for a military shine as this is covered quite extensively.

Details | Knit - Loro Piana “Baby Cashmere” | Jacket (part of suit) - P Johnson in Loro Piana “Zelander” for GW | Shirt - Ascot Chang for GW | Pantaloons - P Johnson in Loro Piana cotton fine cord for GW | PS - Tom Fuking Ford | Hoofs - Edward Green “Westminster” in Mole suede on 888 last with Dainite sole for Leather Soul | Umbrella - Fox

Friday Business Casual in Blaze Orange

5th day of rain - EXERENT!

Details | Umbrella - Fox for GW | Pocket Square - Drake’s Irish linen | Jacket (part of suit) - @PJohnson in Loro Piana for GW | Shirt - @AscotChang in Thomas Mason for GW | Tie - Hermes knit tie | DubMunks - Edward Green “Westminster” Mole Suede for @LeatherSoul for GW | Bag - Ettinger for @TheArmoury

* take note of the shape & undisturbed line of the jacket even whilst holding up an umbrella.

There is nothing wrong with MTO if the tailor/fitter knows what he is doing which is unfortunately a rarity today. I have seen more “car wrecks” from E. Zegna “Su Misura” than a roller derby & they average more than 3 times the cost of a P Johnson MTO commission.

Another stinker in the Emerald City - more separates + old Hermes “hook leather bracelet”.
* I’ve had this since the early 90s. I cried when I paid for it. Now I just smile when I look at it. & yes I have a H belt..
(Taken with Instagram at The Bunker)

Another stinker in the Emerald City - more separates + old Hermes “hook leather bracelet”.

* I’ve had this since the early 90s. I cried when I paid for it. Now I just smile when I look at it. & yes I have a H belt..

(Taken with Instagram at The Bunker)

My First Friday back - BUSINESS CASUAL!

Details | Sports Coat - P Johnson in Ariston Linen for GW | Shirt - Ascot Chang for GW | Pantaloons - P Johnson in Loro Piana cotton fine cord for GW | DubMunks - Edward Green for Leather Soul | Pocket Square - Tom Fucking Ford

Linen + Linen + Linen.. It’s getting warm & perfect for "business casual"

* my nephew has special disappearing powers..

Details | Jacket - P Johnson in Ariston denim linen for GW | Shirt - Ascot Chang in Drake’s “vintage reserve linen shirting” for GW | Linen pantaloons - RLPL | Knit tie - Hermes | PS - Herringbone | DubMunks - Edward Green “Westminster” in suede on 888 last & Dainite sole for Leather Soul for GW

Another Friday, another day for Business Casual

Even though it is the second day of spring - the air is still cool, hence the sweater.

When I find myself wearing a lot of similar tones, highlighting with the opposite tone in smaller dosages is the best way to balance the look. Such as the red toned silk pocket square & brown suede shoes.

Sleeves need shaving - even happens with cashmere

Green & Gold = Wallabies

Hard to beat suede DubMunks & the Dainite is great for foul weather

Details | Knit - Loro Piana | Jacket (part of suit) - P johnson in Loro Piana wool/cashmere “gun check” for GW | PS - Tom Fucking Ford | Shirt - Ascot Chang in vintage Drakes private reserve shirting for GW (helps to know peeps) | Pantaloons - P Johnson in Loro Piana cotton fine pin cord for GW | DubMunks - Edward Green “Westminster” in Mole suede, 888 last in Dainite for Leather Soul | WatchClock - Panerai Radiomir #210

HAGWE

Never enough texture for business Casual..
(Taken with Instagram at The Bunker)

Never enough texture for business Casual..

(Taken with Instagram at The Bunker)

RAW denim or WARM Cordovan.. What smells better? 

Today was one of those days that I said FUK THE RULES & chose to wear dungarees!

Dungarees? Grown Man jeans not Dad Jeans or Gen Y/X2.0 “drop crotch”, “skinny leg”, “drop ass” Hipsters - the difference:

  • Premium RAW denim not bagged out stone-washed or some bizarre acid wash
  • Straighter leg
  • Higher rise as Grown Men tuck their shirts in
  • Pin roll cuffs

* these are from ACL x Tellason & IMO great fitting jeans for me. I will do a post about these at a later date.

So this week we have discussed back fit & balance, so why not finish with the same.

This 280gm linen from Ariston is ideal when the season starts to warm up (as it is down here in the Antipodes). For example we are in the last days of winter & the weather is hovering between 19c - 22c at midday with cooler mornings & evenings.

Medium to heavy weight linen offers great drape as well as very mouldable to ones body. Being heavier, the creases are also not as hard.

Do yourself a favour & investigate in a medium to heavier weight linen.

Usual 3/4 profile

Carmina Cordovan shell moccasins - a special order for The Armoury

Details | SC - P Johnson in Ariston linen for GW | Shirt - P Johnson in Thomas Mason twill for GW | PS - Drakes for The Armoury | Socks - Pantherella | Moccasins - Carmina for The Armoury | Bag - Ettinger “Wimbledon” for The Armoury

Cows don’t need umbrellas..

So don’t worry about wearing leather shoes in the rain - just worry after.

  • Air dry in a well ventilated area
  • Shoe trees, lasted (made & shaped for said shoe) shoe trees are better
  • Suede - always brush after each wearing, in one direction only
  • Calf - brush down then apply shoe cream whilst the leather is warm. Better absorption
  • Shell Cordovan - brush down
  • Never wear same pair of shoes 2 days in a row
  • Once a month apply a wax for protection
  • 3M Scotch Guard or any silicone spray - only lasts 2 wears before one needs to reapply. Also can change the colour of suede or worse, seal the pores.. DON’T DO IT..

To shine or not?

Some like the high polish (such as Ethan), whilst other prefer a natural lustre (such as me). I won’t get into what is involved for a military shine as this is covered quite extensively.

Details | Knit - Loro Piana “Baby Cashmere” | Jacket (part of suit) - P Johnson in Loro Piana “Zelander” for GW | Shirt - Ascot Chang for GW | Pantaloons - P Johnson in Loro Piana cotton fine cord for GW | PS - Tom Fuking Ford | Hoofs - Edward Green “Westminster” in Mole suede on 888 last with Dainite sole for Leather Soul | Umbrella - Fox

Orange Juice

Playing with colour is no different to playing with fire - stoke it, control it & don’t let it take over or get out of control.

When I use colour, it is a conscious decision to create attention but never in a business setting.

So I started with a pale ecru base, build up with blue colour high lights in the shirt/jacket & finish off with a muted orange..

The most important factor is that every part compliments & not competes.

It’s going to rain..

Double SOLE IT!

Details | Jacket (part of suit), Shirt & Pantaloons - P Johnson for GW | Tie & PS - Hermes | Knit - Loro Piana | Hoofs - Edward Green “Dover” for Leather Soul | Shades - vintage Moscot | Knit - Loro Piana

Where’s my fuel?
(Taken with Instagram at The Bunker)

Where’s my fuel?

(Taken with Instagram at The Bunker)