"It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle."
Ernest Hemingwayemail me if google hasn't got the answer..
3 weeks of wearing trainers has not really made it difficult to transition back to English bench made hoofs.. Well.. They fit..
(Taken with Instagram at The Bunker)
Trust me, it’s safe out there..
Details | Shades - Tom Fucking Ford | Suit - @PJohnson Loro Piana “Zelander” | Pocket Square - Drake’s Irish linen | Shirt - @AscotChang Thomas Mason for GW | Tie - Herringbone | Hoofs - Crocket & Jones “Belgrave” | Bag - Ettinger for @TheArmoury
Don’t trust a man that doesn’t own a umbrella large enough for 2. & I don’t mean a disposable or golf umbrella. You want WOOD ;)
Details | Suit - @PJohnson Loro Piana wool/mohair for GW | Pocket Square - Drake’s Irish Linen | Shirt - @AcsotChang Thomas Mason for GW | Tie - @VandaFineClothing unlined 1st edition tie | Hoofs - Crocket & Jones “belgrave” | Bag - Ettinger for @TheArmoury | Umbrella - Fox for GW
Sans tie.. Dirt bag or Douche bag?
I actually don’t mind wearing a suit or jacket with out a tie - as long as the shirt collar is not wishy washy but WABI SABI..
One or two button un-done? Dirt bag or Douche bag? If you have to ask, one button..
* This should answer the messages about suits/jackets with out a tie - & if I would do it.
Details | Shades - Ray Ban “Round Metals” | Suit - P johnson in Loro Piana “Zelander | Shirt - bespoke in mystery linen for GW | Pocket Square - Drakes linen | Hoofs - Crocket & Jones “Belgrave” (yes it is going to bucket down with rain later today)
“Can Can Do”.. (as I hear too much in the land of “The Truman Show” - Singapore).. When the truth is “no can can LAH”..
So the challenge as often asked - can anyone wear a double breasted suit without looking like a “fluffier” come “doppelgänger” exiting the set of a bad 90s porn film set.
Yes & No - there really is no definitive or scientific answer other than are you the star, starlet or …
The real question is, do you have the gravitas to wear a DB. Good tailoring can only do so much to hide one’s lack of. This also applies to most general style/sartorial questions I get asked every day. If you have to ask, then just maybe you are not at that place yet but not to say you won’t be tomorrow.
The DB is where FIT, BALANCE & PROPORTION is PARAMOUNT & unless you are gifted with good proportions, Made-to-Measure or bespoke is the best way.
This particular DB was my second MmMBC (Mystery MicroManageMent Bespoke Commission) & it took a long time, hence the “MicroManagement” as I chose to use a tailoring shop in Hong Kong that has good workmanship but required a STRONG guiding hand by a friend who has deep experience with the Northern Italian tailoring houses for aesthetic reasons & my self (the “fluffee” not “fluffier”)..
Interestingly the fit is OK even though I have lost some body mass over the last few years. But as I have always stated, start at the shoulders & then follow through as one’s foundation is the shoulder & this is your skeletal structure
On wearing this morning I immediately noticed some fit issues primarily due to my current smaller waist (weird, but true.. They must have removed the lard from the Shanghai dumplings) & not till I looked at the photos did I agree that all is still good. Like I harp on, GOOD FIT IS NOT TIGHT FIT..
Would I do this again? Maybe as it took quite some time & the process is very good for one’s yoga training. Luckily we did not have to re-order more cloth as have before with other commissions during the earlier days.
I hope this provides some insight to all the emails/messages & why I don’t recommend any tailoring houses in Asia, as there are many limitations on both sides of the counter. You & him/her.
Recently I embarked on another DB commission less the mM, this one will be slightly different in stylistic details so we will have to wait.
In summary, I have discussed the above a few times now, so please click on the below links as there is nothing else to add as I use my posts to answer many emails at once (& recently there have been a lot about DBs & men of shorter stature).
BUT THE REAL REASON FOR THIS POST - NiceTryBro HATES DBS & I would like to offer him my CHALLENGE ;)
For those that are not following or aware.. Do visit as he has a solid voice & definite SNARK that I appreciate..
In closing, bespoke tailoring is no different to a film production, everyone has a role & a star!
Details | Suit - MmMBC in 8.5 oz SummerPhasco for GW | Shirt - MBC in mystery linen for GW | Tie - Herringbone | Pocket Square - Drakes | Shades - vintage Moscot “Lemtosh” | Hoofs - Crocket & Jones “Begrave” (my foul weather & travel beaters)
Forecast for storms this afternoon, exerent for my C&J Belgrave aka “beaters”..
(Taken with Instagram at The Bunker)
Mondays are coming around faster as I get older..
Details | Suit - P Johnson in Loro Piana “Zelander” for GW | Shirt - Ascot Chang in Alumo twill for GW | Tie - Loro Piana not for GW | PS - Herringbone | Hoofs - Crocket & Jones “Belgrave”
COVER YOUR ASS
There is a common misconception that one should have the length of their jackets as short as possible to give the perception of hight via longer leg balance to shorter body. Unless you are a ‘hipster’ & going for that certain look that will make you cringe next season, don’t read on.
The same goes for the misconception of shorter men must avoid cuffs with pants.
There is no actual quantum science or emperical measure as we are all blessed with different body proportions as shapes.
But in my opinion it is best to understand your body proportions & shape then adhere to some certain guidelines not rules to make you look your best:
As mentioned in an earlier post, Patrick Johnson (tailor) & I changed a few minor measurements with this suit to keep it as ‘classic’ as possible compared to my other suits.
What do we see?
Other than the grey suit looking more English & the navy chalk looking more Italian - see the difference.
Where the (sleeve) ends
“My method” as no tailor I know uses this but agree it works for me
Now have a look at the full body shots & see the consistency & the effects this gives me.
Is there a natural flow from shoulder to arm to wrist point & where the jacket finishes.
Finally - if your jacket body is too short (as in not covering your ass), your sleeves will look too long & hence throw the whole visual proportions out & the above will make no impact.
FWIW I am:
The most important message - find a GOOD tailor that you connect with & TRUST him or her.
Details | Suit - P Johnson for GW | Shirt - Ascot Chang for GW | PS - Facconable | Tie - 15 YEAR OLD Channel (sheesh I have an old passport picture of me wearing this same tie) | Hoofs - John Lobb “Phillip II” on 7000 last for Leather Soul
Day 2 & all is good in the land of humidity & heat..
* had drinks with the men of The Rake then caught up with a my good friend Gerald who will be embarking on a very exciting sartorial project in SIN - stay tuned..
Day 1 & I survived the heat/humidity of SIN..
“Hmmmm It’s very quiet considering the SIN GP starts today…”
To Bow or not to Bow.. (this will be a week of bow ties dedicated to Ms Zupani of TSO.tumblr)
It has been about about a year since I wore a bow tie - actually forgot the effects it has on the opposite sex.
Whilst some male colleagues joked, the female colleagues voiced their approval as well as strangers on the train.
The secret to wearing a bow-tie?
* Though my Sistah hates them..
Details | BT - PRL | PS - Herringbone | Jacket (part of suit) - P Johnson in Loro Piana “The Wave” for GW | Shirt - Ascot Chang in Thomas Mason “Silver Line” for GW | Pantaloons - Incotex | Hoofs - Crocket & Jones “Belgrave”
Variations of classics
The navy jacket + grey pantaloons is a classic - PERIOD.. But can we ever update this?
In my opinion yes. It’s in the details.
What do you think?
But shoes should be as classic as possible - no square or snouts..
Details | Jacket (part of suit) - P Johnson in Loro Piana “The Wave” for GW | Shirt - Ascot Chang in Thomas Mason for GW | Tie & PS - Tom Fucking Ford | Hoofs - Crocket & Jones “Belgrave”
Monday Chalkadelia Blues
What happens when one sleeps with the heater on? Blured vision due to dried out eyes..
Many say to not overplay one colour tone - I agree in particular with the red & green spectrum.
Though playing with blue (as well as grey is very business) is quite safe - provided you have a white canvas to build on as this will provide enough contrast or crispness.
Other tricks are playing with scale of patterns. Hint - Make sure they are all noticeably different, as well as different types of cloth.
Today I start with a white cotton poplin shirt as the canvas to anchor the 3 blue cloths with different scales.
Chestnut calf shoes to break up the blue spectrum - suede would be another example - the brown horn buttons also bring this into balance.
Details | Suit - P Johnson for GW | Shirt - Ascot Chang for GW | Tie - Herringbone | PS - vintage Japanese cloth | Beaters - Crocket & Jones “Belgrave”
* back to blurred vision - WTF was I thinking with my sock choice!