3 weeks of wearing trainers has not really made it difficult to transition back to English bench made hoofs.. Well.. They fit..

(Taken with Instagram at The Bunker)

Trust me, it’s safe out there..

Details | Shades - Tom Fucking Ford | Suit - @PJohnson Loro Piana “Zelander” | Pocket Square - Drake’s Irish linen | Shirt - @AscotChang Thomas Mason for GW | Tie - Herringbone | Hoofs - Crocket & Jones “Belgrave” | Bag - Ettinger for @TheArmoury

Don’t trust a man that doesn’t own a umbrella large enough for 2. & I don’t mean a disposable or golf umbrella. You want WOOD ;)

Details | Suit - @PJohnson Loro Piana wool/mohair for GW | Pocket Square - Drake’s Irish Linen | Shirt - @AcsotChang Thomas Mason for GW | Tie - @VandaFineClothing unlined 1st edition tie | Hoofs - Crocket & Jones “belgrave” | Bag - Ettinger for @TheArmoury | Umbrella - Fox for GW

Sans tie.. Dirt bag or Douche bag?

I actually don’t mind wearing a suit or jacket with out a tie - as long as the shirt collar is not wishy washy but WABI SABI..

One or two button un-done? Dirt bag or Douche bag? If you have to ask, one button..

* This should answer the messages about suits/jackets with out a tie - & if I would do it.

Details | Shades - Ray Ban “Round Metals” | Suit - P johnson in Loro Piana “Zelander | Shirt - bespoke in mystery linen for GW | Pocket Square - Drakes linen | Hoofs - Crocket & Jones “Belgrave” (yes it is going to bucket down with rain later today)

“Can Can Do”.. (as I hear too much in the land of “The Truman Show” - Singapore).. When the truth is “no can can LAH”..

So the challenge as often asked - can anyone wear a double breasted suit without looking like a “fluffier” come “doppelgänger” exiting the set of a bad 90s porn film set.

Yes & No - there really is no definitive or scientific answer other than are you the star, starlet or …

The real question is, do you have the gravitas to wear a DB. Good tailoring can only do so much to hide one’s lack of. This also applies to most general style/sartorial questions I get asked every day. If you have to ask, then just maybe you are not at that place yet but not to say you won’t be tomorrow.

The DB is where FIT, BALANCE & PROPORTION is PARAMOUNT & unless you are gifted with good proportions, Made-to-Measure or bespoke is the best way.

This particular DB was my second MmMBC (Mystery MicroManageMent Bespoke Commission) & it took a long time, hence the “MicroManagement” as I chose to use a tailoring shop in Hong Kong that has good workmanship but required a STRONG guiding hand by a friend who has deep experience with the Northern Italian tailoring houses for aesthetic reasons & my self (the “fluffee” not “fluffier”)..

Interestingly the fit is OK even though I have lost some body mass over the last few years. But as I have always stated, start at the shoulders & then follow through as one’s foundation is the shoulder & this is your skeletal structure

On wearing this morning I immediately noticed some fit issues primarily due to my current smaller waist (weird, but true.. They must have removed the lard from the Shanghai dumplings) & not till I looked at the photos did I agree that all is still good. Like I harp on, GOOD FIT IS NOT TIGHT FIT..

Would I do this again? Maybe as it took quite some time & the process is very good for one’s yoga training. Luckily we did not have to re-order more cloth as have before with other commissions during the earlier days.

I hope this provides some insight to all the emails/messages & why I don’t recommend any tailoring houses in Asia, as there are many limitations on both sides of the counter. You & him/her.

Recently I embarked on another DB commission less the mM, this one will be slightly different in stylistic details so we will have to wait.

http://mostexerent.tumblr.com/post/11694324729/everyone-needs-a-dove-grey-db-in-a-open-weave

In summary, I have discussed the above a few times now, so please click on the below links as there is nothing else to add as I use my posts to answer many emails at once (& recently there have been a lot about DBs & men of shorter stature).

http://mostexerent.tumblr.com/post/8626589367/micro-management-one-of-the-joys-of-living-in-hkg

http://mostexerent.tumblr.com/post/752298114/double-trouble-in-the-land-of-invisible-men-in

BUT THE REAL REASON FOR THIS POST - NiceTryBro HATES DBS & I would like to offer him my CHALLENGE ;)

For those that are not following or aware.. Do visit as he has a solid voice & definite SNARK that I appreciate..

http://nicetrybro.tumblr.com/ 

In closing, bespoke tailoring is no different to a film production, everyone has a role & a star!

Details | Suit - MmMBC in 8.5 oz SummerPhasco for GW | Shirt - MBC in mystery linen for GW | Tie - Herringbone | Pocket Square - Drakes | Shades - vintage Moscot “Lemtosh” | Hoofs - Crocket & Jones “Begrave” (my foul weather & travel beaters)

Forecast for storms this afternoon, exerent for my C&J Belgrave aka “beaters”..

(Taken with Instagram at The Bunker)

Shove..

Mondays are coming around faster as I get older..

Details | Suit - P Johnson in Loro Piana “Zelander” for GW | Shirt - Ascot Chang in Alumo twill for GW | Tie - Loro Piana not for GW | PS - Herringbone | Hoofs - Crocket & Jones “Belgrave”

COVER YOUR ASS

There is a common misconception that one should have the length of their jackets as short as possible to give the perception of hight via longer leg balance to shorter body. Unless you are a ‘hipster’ & going for that certain look that will make you cringe next season, don’t read on.

The same goes for the misconception of shorter men must avoid cuffs with pants.

BAR-HUMBUG!

There is no actual quantum science or emperical measure as we are all blessed with different body proportions as shapes.

But in my opinion it is best to understand your body proportions & shape then adhere to some certain guidelines not rules to make you look your best:

1. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
2. Sleeves of jacket should be no shorter than the natural flex point - where your hand meets your wrist (I will elaborate on my technique later) & not past where your thumb meets your hand
3. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
4. Shoulder of jacket not sit before or no more than 2cm from the end of your natural shoulder
5. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
6. Body of jacket not be so tight that you look like an extra from some bad commercial shoot of certain ‘FASHUN’ brands or Men’s “STYLE” magazines
7. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
8. The actual buttoning point at your natural waist (give or take a cm, lower is better) & you natural waist is roughly where your belly button is. DO NOT GET CONFUSED with wearing jeans as they tend to sit on YOUR HIPS, unless you have progressed to Grown Man Style dungarees ;)
9. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
10. Pants should sit as close as possible to your natural waist (see above) - pants are not jeans
11. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
12. Good tailoring is not tight fitting, good tailoring provides movement
13. Jacket MUST cover your ASS

As mentioned in an earlier post, Patrick Johnson (tailor) & I changed a few minor measurements with this suit to keep it as ‘classic’ as possible compared to my other suits.

1. Jacket is nearly 2cm longer (see comparison to yesterdays flannel chalk stripe) to add an unbroken line
2. ‘Roped’ versus ‘soft’ shoulder or ‘con rollino’ v ‘spalla camicia’
3. Waist points or buttoning dropped by 1cm & retained circumference measurements
4. Higher sleeve hole to add elegance & to lengthen the torso
5. Sleeve shape & length the same
6. Different pocket treatment (actually tucked in the flaps)
7. Pants are same

What do we see?

Other than the grey suit looking more English & the navy chalk looking more Italian - see the difference.

Where the (sleeve) ends

“My method” as no tailor I know uses this but agree it works for me

1. Stand “naturally” & let arms hang “naturally”
2. Raise hands so that they are parallel to the floor - yoga helps
3. Jacket sleeve kisses back of hand with no break, this is ‘my’ natural flex point & where I try & make sure all my sleeves finish
4. Ask tailor to pin or take measurement
5. Walk around & start again to make sure it is the same

Now have a look at the full body shots & see the consistency & the effects this gives me.

Is there a natural flow from shoulder to arm to wrist point & where the jacket finishes.

Finally - if your jacket body is too short (as in not covering your ass), your sleeves will look too long & hence throw the whole visual proportions out & the above will make no impact.

FWIW I am:

• 5’7” or 175cm. Not of model height
• 160 lb or 73 kg. Too many burgers & dumplings
• 18.5” or 47cm across the shoulder. So wider than what my height dictates if I was ‘average’
• Rather not disclose my waist. Too many burgers & dumplings

The most important message - find a GOOD tailor that you connect with & TRUST him or her.

Details | Suit - P Johnson for GW | Shirt - Ascot Chang for GW | PS - Facconable | Tie - 15 YEAR OLD Channel (sheesh I have an old passport picture of me wearing this same tie) | Hoofs - John Lobb “Phillip II” on 7000 last for Leather Soul

Day 2 & all is good in the land of humidity & heat..

* had drinks with the men of The Rake then caught up with a my good friend Gerald who will be embarking on a very exciting sartorial project in SIN - stay tuned..

Day 1 & I survived the heat/humidity of SIN..

“Hmmmm It’s very quiet considering the SIN GP starts today…”

To Bow or not to Bow.. (this will be a week of bow ties dedicated to Ms Zupani of TSO.tumblr)

It has been about about a year since I wore a bow tie - actually forgot the effects it has on the opposite sex.

Whilst some male colleagues joked, the female colleagues voiced their approval as well as strangers on the train.

The secret to wearing a bow-tie?

• Think no different, it’s just a tie & don’t be self conscious as others will notice
• Not to tight - don’t strangle yourself or the tie
• Perfection is not the game - tie it, scrunch it & leave it
• Not to BIG & not to small - remember scale & proportion
• SELF TIE or NO TIE

* Though my Sistah hates them..

Details | BT - PRL | PS - Herringbone | Jacket (part of suit) - P Johnson in Loro Piana “The Wave” for GW | Shirt - Ascot Chang in Thomas Mason “Silver Line” for GW | Pantaloons - Incotex | Hoofs - Crocket & Jones “Belgrave”

Variations of classics

The navy jacket + grey pantaloons is a classic - PERIOD.. But can we ever update this?

In my opinion yes. It’s in the details.

1. Single BUTTON - we never use the other one anyway, so why do we have extra buttons
2. 3 curved patch pockets
3. 1/2 lined in emerald green
4. Modern cloth - most navy sports are either a flannel, hop sack or worsted. I opted for a Loro Piana summer travel cloth from their “The Wave” collection
5. Single pleat - not plain or double, single in a hight twist wool suitable for travel instead of the usual flannel or a worsted
6. 5cm cuffs nothing less

What do you think?

But shoes should be as classic as possible - no square or snouts..

Details | Jacket (part of suit) - P Johnson in Loro Piana “The Wave” for GW | Shirt - Ascot Chang in Thomas Mason for GW | Tie & PS - Tom Fucking Ford | Hoofs - Crocket & Jones “Belgrave”

* Trivia

• This was my first P Johnson commission & like I tell everyone, go navy first!
• Like all good relationships, the first date is a “how are you?” & takes a few dates to get comfortable
• IMO the buttoning point is to high - I’d like it 2.5cm lower & slightly wider lapels

Monday Chalkadelia Blues

What happens when one sleeps with the heater on? Blured vision due to dried out eyes..

Many say to not overplay one colour tone - I agree in particular with the red & green spectrum.

Though playing with blue (as well as grey is very business) is quite safe - provided you have a white canvas to build on as this will provide enough contrast or crispness.

Other tricks are playing with scale of patterns. Hint - Make sure they are all noticeably different, as well as different types of cloth.

Today I start with a white cotton poplin shirt as the canvas to anchor the 3 blue cloths with different scales.

1. Denim blue + silver chalk stripe flannel for suiting
2. French blue + silver micro dot silk for tie
3. China blue + white snow flake stiff cotton for pocket square

Chestnut calf shoes to break up the blue spectrum - suede would be another example - the brown horn buttons also bring this into balance.

Details | Suit - P Johnson for GW | Shirt - Ascot Chang for GW | Tie - Herringbone | PS - vintage Japanese cloth | Beaters - Crocket & Jones “Belgrave”

* back to blurred vision - WTF was I thinking with my sock choice!