"It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle."
Ernest Hemingwayemail me if google hasn't got the answer..
Dreaming about the BREVET..
45 seconds from a storm, set aperture, ISO, speed, & focus (all manual).. But some how it all came together with my M8
Details: Suit - A&S | Shirt - Ascot Chang for GW | Tie - Herringbone | Shoes - MTO Vass “austerity brogue” on U-Last | Watch - IWC Ingenieur | Ring - Bottega Veneta
So, understand the CONTEXT
Recently a few messages about why my change in style & this post from 2011 touched on it.
Simply put, I no longer work in a “suit & tie” environment - even the #1 of my company doesn’t wear a ”suit & tie”.
Which brings an interesting point - there was a time when a well tailored suit was akin to an armour to project power & status, when in todays world I see the reverse. Especially when the young or the uncomfortable are trying to assimilate #GrownManStyle when the experienced can see through their lack of gravitas.
I now see a reverse balance of power in professional settings, when the suits actually lose their composure.
My Mother & Sister are perfect examples, they dress with confidence in their own style.
Recently my Sister made a very relevant comment about the other “school mums” when she goes to pick up her daughter/son.. Why do “school mums” feel it necessary to always be in gym wear when it’s obvious they have not been or going to a gym. Consequently she receives a different attention.
So, understand the CONTEXT
Dress your age or your role in life - understand the CONTEXT
May I suggest you enjoy making mistakes & dress like a Young Man.
With the sudden change in seasons come rain & messages about appropriate footwear. Let’s be concise here, NO WELLIES in the CITY! & yes it’s OK to wear suede in the wet, just not consecutive days & make sure you allow them to dry out naturally.
Brought to you from the archives - this was circa 2011 but still very relevant
RAIN.. Then BUCKETS!
Notes: Suit & shirt - P Johnson, Tie - Loro Piana, PS - Herringbone, Boots - RM Williams, Umbrella - Fox
Suede in the rain.
Getting messages regarding the different should treatments I have for my Patrick Johnson suits - see below from the archives
Something for everyone
With the change of season’s comes the change in wear - this should answer recent questions about how to wear a military inspired jacket without going camo (which I have no issue as long as it is not “ironic”).
Most important is “FIT & BALANCE” - some have had great luck at army surplus stores, not me but that doesn’t mean one has to spend a lot. For example this M65 inspired jacket is from MUJI from about 3 years ago & we all know MUJI is not expensive.
FYI - the below was Winter 2012
Saturday Sports Day..
* As much as I’d like him to play rugby (Union not League), My nephew does me proud playing soccer (FootBall)..
Details | M65 jacket & scarf - MUJI | Knit (not visible) - RLPL grey crew | Pantaloons - Rapha x Paul Smith | Boots - Tod’s a la Gianni Agnelli
** Last 2 pics shot at dusk, hence the colour shift
Still getting emails & messages about fit “basics” - see below from the archives circa 2011
COVER YOUR ASS
There is a common misconception that one should have the length of their jackets as short as possible to give the perception of hight via longer leg balance to shorter body. Unless you are a ‘hipster’ & going for that certain look that will make you cringe next season, don’t read on.
The same goes for the misconception of shorter men must avoid cuffs with pants.
There is no actual quantum science or emperical measure as we are all blessed with different body proportions as shapes.
But in my opinion it is best to understand your body proportions & shape then adhere to some certain guidelines not rules to make you look your best:
As mentioned in an earlier post, Patrick Johnson (tailor) & I changed a few minor measurements with this suit to keep it as ‘classic’ as possible compared to my other suits.
What do we see?
Other than the grey suit looking more English & the navy chalk looking more Italian - see the difference.
Where the (sleeve) ends
“My method” as no tailor I know uses this but agree it works for me
Now have a look at the full body shots & see the consistency & the effects this gives me.
Is there a natural flow from shoulder to arm to wrist point & where the jacket finishes.
Finally - if your jacket body is too short (as in not covering your ass), your sleeves will look too long & hence throw the whole visual proportions out & the above will make no impact.
FWIW I am:
The most important message - find a GOOD tailor that you connect with & TRUST him or her.
Details | Suit - P Johnson for GW | Shirt - Ascot Chang for GW | PS - Facconable | Tie - 15 YEAR OLD Channel (sheesh I have an old passport picture of me wearing this same tie) | Hoofs - John Lobb “Phillip II” on 7000 last for Leather Soul
I’m still getting messages/emails about “navy” vs “airforce blue” - so read on.
FYI - Originally posted early 2011 & I never got around doing a post comparing John Lobb to Crockett & Jones, unfortunately I won’t be.
Navy or Airforce?
There are times when navy (French or English) is too formal - especially days when you still need to suit up. This is when airforce blue shines - literally in the case of this particular cloth from Loro Piana as there is mohair mixed in with the wool. For those that are not familiar, mohair has a slight sheen that lights up when natural light hits it. Other times it will have a slight lustre or as I say DISCO..
Because of this lustre, I choose to downplay with more sombre items such as black shoes, mini butcher striped shirt & a rep tie. It’s all in the balance & the delivery.
Although we are in the last month of winter in Sydney, the weather is sunny with the air crisp & dry that just begs for drinking at the end of the day. The mornings & evening are still cool, whilst the middle of the day challenges ones choice of suiting.
Suddenly wearing flannels or heavy worsted cloths are a challenge as we live in a world of controlled environments.
This is when wool mixed with other fibres come to play as well as high performance wools
So, are you in the Navy or Airforce today?
Details | Suit & shirt - P Johnson for GW | Tie & PS - Drakes for The Armoury | Shoes - John Lobb “Phillip II” for Leather Soul
* & yes I will do a write up on shoes, in particular the difference between the “Philip II” by John Lobb versus the “Belgrave” by Crocket & Jones. Even though they are at different price scales, the style is very similar.. Or should it be on how I tie a double four in hand (though that may require a video)..
More from winter 2011
The Clash.. Italy calling..
Notes: Suit - P Johnson for GW, Shirt - Ascot Chan for GW, Tie & PS - Herringbone, Shoes - Crocket & Jones “Belgrave”, Grin - family shenanigans..
Monet or Picasso? It’s in the eye of the beholder …
* Note that this is all second nature to me. It has taken many sartorial blunders & over 20 years of snarks to now where I actually don’t over-think this when I dress in the morning, or even the night before. My barometer is in how I feel when I wake up, the weather, and the context for the day. This is the only regard in which I think about it.
The cooler climes are approaching us in the Antipodes, so it’s timely that a follower has uncovered this from my archives.
FYI - this was originally posted about June 2011.
Is it going to be too warm for flannel? & there will always be ripples..
Notes: Suit - P Johnson for GW, Shirt - Ascot Chan for GW, PS - Herringbone, Tie - E. G. Capelli, Shoes - Anthony Cleverley “Bodie” for Leather Soul
Well that was a blast of congee! See youse all when we touch down in the antipodes.
#happinessfoundinhk #firstworldtravelproblems #firstworlddatingproblems #olympusomd5