* From the archives as discovered by a new follower (May 2010). Take note I still wear/own all the items
March 20th 2010 - Me micro managing a tailor for my good friend in the bowels of the Kong..
*A lesson learn’t with my friends, always bring a “critical eye” for all fittings
Details - all Bespoke
Another blast from Hong Kong 2010 - good morning to some & good night to the others.
Giro d’ Italia in 10min!
* All the above is bespoke from another chapter in my past
There is something contagious about being in a work room where sartorial dreams are being made..
& no I am not in the “industry” - just fortunate to live in a city where access to such trades is still available to get well fitting clothing..
Thanks culturallyanachronistic:
Rediscovery of some “oldies” from a mostexerent tumblr. Hope that elbow heals quickly, good sir!
FYI - Jan 2011
Bed time..
Details: SC - “cool effect” blazer by E. Zegna Couture, Shirt - bespoke, Tie - Gallo, Tie pin - Bottega Veneta, Belt - E. Zegna, PS - Kiton, Pantaloons - RL, Cigar - Partagas SD4!
WEAR WITHOUT CARE..
* the above photo was taken with SHEER LUCK 2 years ago. It was midnight, I had just returned from a ball & had a great time. Consequently slightly tipsy.
How I managed to capture this with a timer on a Leica M8 (all manual), still confounds me.
Details | bespoke black single peak tuxedo | bespoke pale pink with white spread collar & cuff | vintage Hermes bow tie, pocket square & 925 Hermes horse bit links | lapel flower | black MTO Vass oxfords | Partagas Series D4 | vintage Cutler & Gross clear frames |
GW
Most Exerent Interview: Wear Without Care
Guido Wongolini, aka Mostexerent has one of the best blogs on clothing and design.
http://mostexerent.tumblr.com/
Aside from tasty photos of morning coffee, GW creates and posts some of the best daily sartorial photographs around. He has a great eye. His alluring photos document a daily ritual of sophisticated clothing combinations and he provides candid commentary useful to followers of his blog. So, after following his work for quite some time, i’m honored to open up the conversation on shoes, clothing and design to Mostexerent.
Archive of Shoes: Do you have a memory of the time /place/ situation where you realized you were really interested in clothing and its design / aesthetics? ( I’m interested in finding out what helped instigate a passion in people. for myself I remember two situations quite clearly -from those points on, i approached clothing with much more of a desire to learn.)
GW: ”As cliched as it is my interest was from watching old B&W movies, & always dreamt of the day when I would be Grown Up. The one movie that had the most impact was “Indiscreet” with Cary Grant & Ingrid Bergman. I connected with the art of being discreet & respect for the other person.”
Archive of Shoes: What shoes make up your current collection /rotation?
GW: “My rotation included mainly English shoes from Edward Green & John Lobb with highlights from St Crispin & Alden. I have a 50/50 of black to brown & never wear the same pair more than once in a week.”
Archive of Shoes: Is there a maker /brand that you find particularly well suited to you or that you have a preference for?
GW: ”Edward Green & St Crispin - as they both have enough lasts to suit most & in particular my feet.”
Archive of Shoes: If you have ventured into bespoke shoes -how was the experience and end result?
GW: ”Nothing of note as I have been very fortunate to have found the correct lasts from the above Question 5.”
Archive of Shoes: Based on your shoe collection and experience-any advice or tips you would pass along to others wanting to build a quality collection ?
GW: ”The usual, start with basics & stay away from trends. Buy the best you can, always have lasted shoe trees, rotate, don’t over polish & just wear without care!”
Archive of Shoes: Any shoe makers/brands you like that may not get as much attention on blogs or forums?
GW: ”St Crispin”
Archive of Shoes: Any new tips /advice on clothing, bespoke that you would like to share? (Or if you have any concerns or complaints-this is your platform)
GW: ”Bespoke is not always the best option. & one should take time to understand their build & most importantly the context. Too many today get caught up in what they see & forget their context. Also, stick with the basics & take your time to wear without care.”
Archive of Shoes: You seem to be a fan of mid century modern furniture. Are you starting to collect? If so what do you own?
GW: ”Yes & yes”
Archive of Shoes: Anything new and /or interesting in terms of fragrances/colognes?
GW: ”I stick with the classics, preferably subtle & fresh.”
Archive of Shoes: Suppose you didn’t have the day job -Would you consider going into design? clothing, cars, architecture, furniture etc?
GW: ”I think about this a lot, but the reality is my style is personal & not for everyone. I don’t get caught up in the online “circle jerk”.”
Archive of Shoes: Anything else?
GW: ”I mentioned a few times about wearing without care - this is important as it is only when you wear without care that you can start to live instead of worrying about the details that don’t matter.”
I loved my Vass shoes - except that no 2 fit the same even though they are MTO on the same last. & I had 7 pairs!
Had to flip them in the end.. FIT is paramount, then looks..
* This is what I used to pack & travel with on my 2 week business trips!
Damn fine collection!
(via mostexerent)
WOW - A blast from 2009! (Love you all find these old posts)
* R_D is the profile & the other will remain a mystery (but she has great hair)..
I want red CHINOS!!!
(via mostexerent)
Great capture from one of my trips last year.
This was after a 45 min boat blast beating the storms across the Malacca Straits to meet my team for a bonding session..
Unfortunately for the resort porters I was between 2 countries so had hard cases full of suit & shoes.
WOW - how do my pics keep on turning up?
* Here is my original post 14th Aug 2010 http://mostexerent.tumblr.com/post/952717628/dang-where-did-i-pack-my-bow-tie-for-tonight
My first week back last year.
Of course cawfee with my good friend Ethan was required.
Discourse.
I remember this day - 1st outing form my EG “Dover” for Leather Soul
Concrete.
PG is a whiz with the camera. Especially that red dot camera.
Bing!
& can’t wait to wear this suit again in a few months when it get’s cold..
Yes I was..
& here is my original post for “posterity” http://mostexerent.tumblr.com/post/3028631333/work-before-an-aperitif
mlsg:
Adding to “tumblr“…?
Understanding your fit & balance (I posted this last June 29th 2010 - but this will answer the various emails over the last month)
http://mostexerent.tumblr.com/post/752298114/double-trouble-in-the-land-of-invisible-men-in
Double Trouble in the land of Invisible Men in Grey Suits
- all my life I was told men of my height (5’7” on a good day) should not wear DB suits.. So much so that I believed them.
- It was not until the last year or so that I started to apply balance & proportion that I was able to convince myself that I & others of my stature can wear a DB
- In my case the bottom 4 buttons are closer, the breast buttons are actually lower than my nipple, the breast pocket set higher & the waisting is also about 1.5” above my natural waist to create an illusion of length & space
- please excuse the disappearing shirt cuffs, not sure what happened as they were there before the pic & after..
Though some rules:
- keep it classic & simple
- stick to dark colors
- keep it classic & simple
- try & not split unless you are blessed with good upper body to leg proportions
- keep it classic & simple
- apply level logic to the placement of buttons & pockets
- keep it classic & simple
- ensure the lapels do not swallow your head & chest
- keep it classic & simple
- make sure the pants have minimal break
- keep it classic & simple
- make sure the sleeves meet the wrist bone flex point (see earlier post)
- keep it classic & simple
- find the balance of the length of the jacket as there is no hard & fast rule, just make sure it covers you seat
- & keep it classic & simple
- in answer to the response re my tie, I like my ties skewed as I find the symmetrical or Windsor knots an eye-sore. Just how I roll same as my 5cm or 2” cuffs, not for all but for me
What do you think?
Jan 11th 2010 - Rush hour? One of those mornings where there was no traffic..
March 28th 2010 - a well timed capture, actually more luck than anything