Still getting emails & messages about fit “basics” - see below from the archives circa 2011

mostexerent:

COVER YOUR ASS

There is a common misconception that one should have the length of their jackets as short as possible to give the perception of hight via longer leg balance to shorter body. Unless you are a ‘hipster’ & going for that certain look that will make you cringe next season, don’t read on.

The same goes for the misconception of shorter men must avoid cuffs with pants.

BAR-HUMBUG!

There is no actual quantum science or emperical measure as we are all blessed with different body proportions as shapes.

But in my opinion it is best to understand your body proportions & shape then adhere to some certain guidelines not rules to make you look your best:

  1. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
  2. Sleeves of jacket should be no shorter than the natural flex point - where your hand meets your wrist (I will elaborate on my technique later) & not past where your thumb meets your hand
  3. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
  4. Shoulder of jacket not sit before or no more than 2cm from the end of your natural shoulder
  5. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
  6. Body of jacket not be so tight that you look like an extra from some bad commercial shoot of certain ‘FASHUN’ brands or Men’s “STYLE” magazines
  7. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
  8. The actual buttoning point at your natural waist (give or take a cm, lower is better) & you natural waist is roughly where your belly button is. DO NOT GET CONFUSED with wearing jeans as they tend to sit on YOUR HIPS, unless you have progressed to Grown Man Style dungarees ;)
  9. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
  10. Pants should sit as close as possible to your natural waist (see above) - pants are not jeans
  11. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
  12. Good tailoring is not tight fitting, good tailoring provides movement
  13. Jacket MUST cover your ASS

As mentioned in an earlier post, Patrick Johnson (tailor) & I changed a few minor measurements with this suit to keep it as ‘classic’ as possible compared to my other suits.

  1. Jacket is nearly 2cm longer (see comparison to yesterdays flannel chalk stripe) to add an unbroken line
  2. ‘Roped’ versus ‘soft’ shoulder or ‘con rollino’ v ‘spalla camicia’
  3. Waist points or buttoning dropped by 1cm & retained circumference measurements
  4. Higher sleeve hole to add elegance & to lengthen the torso
  5. Sleeve shape & length the same
  6. Different pocket treatment (actually tucked in the flaps)
  7. Pants are same

What do we see?

Other than the grey suit looking more English & the navy chalk looking more Italian - see the difference.

Where the (sleeve) ends

“My method” as no tailor I know uses this but agree it works for me

  1. Stand “naturally” & let arms hang “naturally”
  2. Raise hands so that they are parallel to the floor - yoga helps
  3. Jacket sleeve kisses back of hand with no break, this is ‘my’ natural flex point & where I try & make sure all my sleeves finish
  4. Ask tailor to pin or take measurement
  5. Walk around & start again to make sure it is the same

Now have a look at the full body shots & see the consistency & the effects this gives me.

Is there a natural flow from shoulder to arm to wrist point & where the jacket finishes.

Finally - if your jacket body is too short (as in not covering your ass), your sleeves will look too long & hence throw the whole visual proportions out & the above will make no impact.

FWIW I am:

  • 5’7” or 175cm. Not of model height
  • 160 lb or 73 kg. Too many burgers & dumplings (UPDATE: currently 68 kg)
  • 18.5” or 47cm across the shoulder. So wider than what my height dictates if I was ‘average’
  • Rather not disclose my waist. Too many burgers & dumplings

The most important message - find a GOOD tailor that you connect with & TRUST him or her.

Details | Suit - P Johnson for GW | Shirt - Ascot Chang for GW | PS - Facconable | Tie - 15 YEAR OLD Channel (sheesh I have an old passport picture of me wearing this same tie) | Hoofs - John Lobb “Phillip II” on 7000 last for Leather Soul

I’m still getting messages/emails about “navy” vs “airforce blue” - so read on.

FYI - Originally posted early 2011 & I never got around doing a post comparing John Lobb to Crockett & Jones, unfortunately I won’t be.

mostexerent:

Navy or Airforce?

There are times when navy (French or English) is too formal - especially days when you still need to suit up. This is when airforce blue shines - literally in the case of this particular cloth from Loro Piana as there is mohair mixed in with the wool. For those that are not familiar, mohair has a slight sheen that lights up when natural light hits it. Other times it will have a slight lustre or as I say DISCO..

Because of this lustre, I choose to downplay with more sombre items such as black shoes, mini butcher striped shirt & a rep tie. It’s all in the balance & the delivery.

Although we are in the last month of winter in Sydney, the weather is sunny with the air crisp & dry that just begs for drinking at the end of the day. The mornings & evening are still cool, whilst the middle of the day challenges ones choice of suiting.

Suddenly wearing flannels or heavy worsted cloths are a challenge as we live in a world of controlled environments.

This is when wool mixed with other fibres come to play as well as high performance wools

So, are you in the Navy or Airforce today?

Details | Suit & shirt - P Johnson for GW | Tie & PS - Drakes for The Armoury | Shoes - John Lobb “Phillip II” for Leather Soul

* & yes I will do a write up on shoes, in particular the difference between the “Philip II” by John Lobb versus the “Belgrave” by Crocket & Jones. Even though they are at different price scales, the style is very similar.. Or should it be on how I tie a double four in hand (though that may require a video)..

When to go ROUGH!

Silk or linen pocket square? The opposite in texture to your tie is a good guide but not necessarily the gospel as the total balance is the deciding factor.

Today I chose to wear a cashmere tie with burnt ochre & mid blue flecks on a light blue base. The texture of the tie is borderline fine tweed so a red on ecru gingham silk pocket square was an unexpected choice.

Usually one would wear calf shoes with a classic suiting as this wool/cashmere chalk stripe - but as the great Prince Edward & Gianni Agnelli has shown, brown suede is a great combination.

Again, all this is built on a white poplin shirt for foundation.

Details | Shade | RayBan “round metal” | Suit - P Johnson in Ariston wool/cashmere flannel silver chalk stripe on denim base | Shirt - Ascot Chang Thomas Mason “Silver Line” white poplin for GW | Tie - Drakes cashmere 7cm | PS - Facconable red on ecru base gingham silk | Wheels - John Lobb “City II” in Pewtere suede on 7000 last for Leather Soul

* From the archives as uncovered by a new follower

*Another blast from the past - thank you new follower

mostexerent:

Solaro SoRaro reflects heat - Truth or Fiction?

Summer has finally arrived in Sydney, Australia & what better way to start than wearing a cotton “Solaro” suit.

It has been said that the weave was developed in such a way to reflect the suns bight - so far I have to agree.

Solaro cloth is recognisable by the fine herringbone weave, usually 2 colours (in this case khaki & plum). Solaro can be of cotton or wool. The wool variety is almost like gaberdine.

The hand (or feel) is quite special in that there is a certain heft yet soft to skin. The creases tend to also be soft not fine like normal cotton.

I’m looking forward to more cotton Solaro - maybe even a DB..

* note the shadows as the clouds move & then note that the tone of the suit changes ever so slightly, so hard to capture this..

Details: Shades - vintage Moscot “Lemtosh” in summer blonde | Suit - P Johnson in Ariston cotton “Solaro” ”SoRaro” for GW | Shirt - P Johnson in Thomas Mason for GW | Knit-tie - Drakes | Pocket Square - Linen Hermes | Socks - MUJI | Hoofs - John Lobb ” City II) in pewter suede on 7000 last for Leather Soul for GW

An old-post that is doing its rounds at the moment that is very applicable to myself & in so answering why I’m not wearing suits anymore.

Simply put, my professional role specifies no suits, ties or pants which means understand the context.

mostexerent:

Dress your age or your role in life - understand the CONTEXT

Currently there is a very strong movement for dressing classically or grown up - EXERENT!

Unless you are only in your teens or 20s. 

Many young men asking advice on what to wear or how to look Grown Man.

May I suggest you enjoy making mistakes & dress like a Young Man.

Today is a fine example. The knit tie I wore was a gift from my Sistah over 20 years ago. Back then she would have bought it for aesthetic reasons & back then I was not ready to wear it. I so wanted to, I just did not have the confidence or role model to learn from (there was no internet - they were the dark ages).

I’m so glad that I saved it till the last 10 years.

But if I did not try it - I would not have learnt from my mistake.

  • Personal style does not happen over night.
  • Personal style is developed over years of mistakes.
  • Personal style is not having to “over think” your choices.
  • Personal style is knowing “your” punchline to a joke.

Details | Shades - RayBan “Round Metal” | Suit - P Johnson in Loro Piana “4 Season” flannel for GW | Shirt - P Johnson in Thomas Mason for GW | Tie - Jasper Conran wool knit (when he was designing clothes not interiors or furniture) | Collar Pin (used as tie pin) - Bottega Veneta | PS - Tom Fucking Ford | DubMunks - John Lobb 2010 St Crepin for Leather Soul

Layers of patterns..

Details | Jacket (part of suit) - Patrick Johnson in Loro Piana wool/cashmere for GW | Shirt - Ascot Chang for GW | Sweater - Comme des Garçon | Socks (yes) - Paul Smith | Hoofs - John Lobb “City II” in suede for Leather Soul for GW

Keeping it “simple”.. Yet interesting..

Details | Jacket (part of suit) - #PJohnson in Loro Piana “The Wave” for GW | Pocket Square - Drake’s Irish linen | Shirt - #PJohnson in Thomas Mason ‘cotton pique’ for GW | Tie - Kiton | Pantaloons (part of suit) - #PJohnson in Huddersfield summer worsted wool for GW | Hoofs - John Lobb “City II” in pewter suede on 7000 last for #LeatherSoul for GW

Monday Basics..

Don’t know why

> 50% chance of rain when I wear suede hoofs

> 50% chance of no rain when I don’t wear suede..

Just is..

Details | Jacket (part of suit) - P Johnson Loro Piana “The Wave” for GW | Pocket Square - Drake’s Irish linen | Shirt - Ascot Chang Thomas Mason poplin for GW | Tie - Drakes cashmere | Belt - RLPL “black” alligator + silver deco slide buckle (I just realised that my belt & shoes didn’t match or compliment - shitz happens) | Pantaloons - Incotex | Hoofs - John Lobb “City II” Pewter suede 7000 last

John Lobb seen in the City II on 7000 last
(Taken with Instagram at The Bunker)

John Lobb seen in the City II on 7000 last

(Taken with Instagram at The Bunker)

Focus on me not the wall..
Monday basics | Shades - vintage Persol | Jacket (part of suit) - @PJohnson Loro Piana “The Wave” for GW | Pocket Square - Drake’s Irish linen | Shirt - @AscotChang Thomas Mason for GW | Tie - E. G. Capelli | Pantaloons - Incotex | DubMunks - John Lobb 2010 St Cripin’s for @LeatherSoul for GW

Focus on me not the wall..

Monday basics | Shades - vintage Persol | Jacket (part of suit) - @PJohnson Loro Piana “The Wave” for GW | Pocket Square - Drake’s Irish linen | Shirt - @AscotChang Thomas Mason for GW | Tie - E. G. Capelli | Pantaloons - Incotex | DubMunks - John Lobb 2010 St Cripin’s for @LeatherSoul for GW

Monday already, feels like ground hog day.
There fore back to basics as it is easier said than done whilst most aim to out Lapo himself when that is bound to end in a hotel room bender..
Details | Jacket (part of suit) - @PJohnson in Loro Piana “The Wave” for GW | Pocket Square - Drakes Irish linen | Shirt - @AscotChang in Alumo for GW | Pantaloons (part of suit) - @PJohnson in Huddersfield summer worsted for GW | Hoofs - Pewter suede John Lobb “City II” @LeatherSoul for GW | Bag - Ettinger for @TheArmoury

Monday already, feels like ground hog day.

There fore back to basics as it is easier said than done whilst most aim to out Lapo himself when that is bound to end in a hotel room bender..

Details | Jacket (part of suit) - @PJohnson in Loro Piana “The Wave” for GW | Pocket Square - Drakes Irish linen | Shirt - @AscotChang in Alumo for GW | Pantaloons (part of suit) - @PJohnson in Huddersfield summer worsted for GW | Hoofs - Pewter suede John Lobb “City II” @LeatherSoul for GW | Bag - Ettinger for @TheArmoury

It’s my Nephew’s 8th b/day today..

Details | Suit - P Johnson in Loro Piana wool/mohair “Airforce Blue” for GW | Pocket Square - Drake’s Irish linen | Shirt - Ascot Chang o Alumo for GW | Hoofs - John Lobb Prestige “Phillip II” in 7000 last for Leather Soul for GW | Umbrella - Fox of London for GW

Nothing wrong with black shoes
Details | Pantaloons - 10 YO Banana Republic | DubMunks - John Lobb 2010 St Crepins for Leather Soul for GW
stoneleighgallery:

Guido’s very very nice dbl monks - I want a pair
BUT
My issue is, I need a pair that doesn’t have that leather welt around the edge to make the shoe look refined on my feet (not that I have big feet). I love the look of men’s shoes on women - but there are details that need to be refined so that the shoes have the essence of the men’s but the right balance for women.

Nothing wrong with black shoes

Details | Pantaloons - 10 YO Banana Republic | DubMunks - John Lobb 2010 St Crepins for Leather Soul for GW

stoneleighgallery:

Guido’s very very nice dbl monks - I want a pair

BUT

My issue is, I need a pair that doesn’t have that leather welt around the edge to make the shoe look refined on my feet (not that I have big feet). I love the look of men’s shoes on women - but there are details that need to be refined so that the shoes have the essence of the men’s but the right balance for women.

Another stinker in the Emerald City - more separates + old Hermes “hook leather bracelet”.
* I’ve had this since the early 90s. I cried when I paid for it. Now I just smile when I look at it. & yes I have a H belt..
(Taken with Instagram at The Bunker)

Another stinker in the Emerald City - more separates + old Hermes “hook leather bracelet”.

* I’ve had this since the early 90s. I cried when I paid for it. Now I just smile when I look at it. & yes I have a H belt..

(Taken with Instagram at The Bunker)