"It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle."
Ernest Hemingwayemail me if google hasn't got the answer..
Still getting emails & messages about fit “basics” - see below from the archives circa 2011
COVER YOUR ASS
There is a common misconception that one should have the length of their jackets as short as possible to give the perception of hight via longer leg balance to shorter body. Unless you are a ‘hipster’ & going for that certain look that will make you cringe next season, don’t read on.
The same goes for the misconception of shorter men must avoid cuffs with pants.
There is no actual quantum science or emperical measure as we are all blessed with different body proportions as shapes.
But in my opinion it is best to understand your body proportions & shape then adhere to some certain guidelines not rules to make you look your best:
As mentioned in an earlier post, Patrick Johnson (tailor) & I changed a few minor measurements with this suit to keep it as ‘classic’ as possible compared to my other suits.
What do we see?
Other than the grey suit looking more English & the navy chalk looking more Italian - see the difference.
Where the (sleeve) ends
“My method” as no tailor I know uses this but agree it works for me
Now have a look at the full body shots & see the consistency & the effects this gives me.
Is there a natural flow from shoulder to arm to wrist point & where the jacket finishes.
Finally - if your jacket body is too short (as in not covering your ass), your sleeves will look too long & hence throw the whole visual proportions out & the above will make no impact.
FWIW I am:
The most important message - find a GOOD tailor that you connect with & TRUST him or her.
Details | Suit - P Johnson for GW | Shirt - Ascot Chang for GW | PS - Facconable | Tie - 15 YEAR OLD Channel (sheesh I have an old passport picture of me wearing this same tie) | Hoofs - John Lobb “Phillip II” on 7000 last for Leather Soul
I’m still getting messages/emails about “navy” vs “airforce blue” - so read on.
FYI - Originally posted early 2011 & I never got around doing a post comparing John Lobb to Crockett & Jones, unfortunately I won’t be.
Navy or Airforce?
There are times when navy (French or English) is too formal - especially days when you still need to suit up. This is when airforce blue shines - literally in the case of this particular cloth from Loro Piana as there is mohair mixed in with the wool. For those that are not familiar, mohair has a slight sheen that lights up when natural light hits it. Other times it will have a slight lustre or as I say DISCO..
Because of this lustre, I choose to downplay with more sombre items such as black shoes, mini butcher striped shirt & a rep tie. It’s all in the balance & the delivery.
Although we are in the last month of winter in Sydney, the weather is sunny with the air crisp & dry that just begs for drinking at the end of the day. The mornings & evening are still cool, whilst the middle of the day challenges ones choice of suiting.
Suddenly wearing flannels or heavy worsted cloths are a challenge as we live in a world of controlled environments.
This is when wool mixed with other fibres come to play as well as high performance wools
So, are you in the Navy or Airforce today?
Details | Suit & shirt - P Johnson for GW | Tie & PS - Drakes for The Armoury | Shoes - John Lobb “Phillip II” for Leather Soul
* & yes I will do a write up on shoes, in particular the difference between the “Philip II” by John Lobb versus the “Belgrave” by Crocket & Jones. Even though they are at different price scales, the style is very similar.. Or should it be on how I tie a double four in hand (though that may require a video)..
When to go ROUGH!
Silk or linen pocket square? The opposite in texture to your tie is a good guide but not necessarily the gospel as the total balance is the deciding factor.
Today I chose to wear a cashmere tie with burnt ochre & mid blue flecks on a light blue base. The texture of the tie is borderline fine tweed so a red on ecru gingham silk pocket square was an unexpected choice.
Usually one would wear calf shoes with a classic suiting as this wool/cashmere chalk stripe - but as the great Prince Edward & Gianni Agnelli has shown, brown suede is a great combination.
Again, all this is built on a white poplin shirt for foundation.
Details | Shade | RayBan “round metal” | Suit - P Johnson in Ariston wool/cashmere flannel silver chalk stripe on denim base | Shirt - Ascot Chang Thomas Mason “Silver Line” white poplin for GW | Tie - Drakes cashmere 7cm | PS - Facconable red on ecru base gingham silk | Wheels - John Lobb “City II” in Pewtere suede on 7000 last for Leather Soul
* From the archives as uncovered by a new follower
*Another blast from the past - thank you new follower
Solaro SoRaro reflects heat - Truth or Fiction?
Summer has finally arrived in Sydney, Australia & what better way to start than wearing a cotton “Solaro” suit.
It has been said that the weave was developed in such a way to reflect the suns bight - so far I have to agree.
Solaro cloth is recognisable by the fine herringbone weave, usually 2 colours (in this case khaki & plum). Solaro can be of cotton or wool. The wool variety is almost like gaberdine.
The hand (or feel) is quite special in that there is a certain heft yet soft to skin. The creases tend to also be soft not fine like normal cotton.
I’m looking forward to more cotton Solaro - maybe even a DB..
* note the shadows as the clouds move & then note that the tone of the suit changes ever so slightly, so hard to capture this..
Details: Shades - vintage Moscot “Lemtosh” in summer blonde | Suit - P Johnson in Ariston cotton “
Solaro” ”SoRaro” for GW | Shirt - P Johnson in Thomas Mason for GW | Knit-tie - Drakes | Pocket Square - Linen Hermes | Socks - MUJI | Hoofs - John Lobb ” City II) in pewter suede on 7000 last for Leather Soul for GW
An old-post that is doing its rounds at the moment that is very applicable to myself & in so answering why I’m not wearing suits anymore.
Simply put, my professional role specifies no suits, ties or pants which means understand the context.
Dress your age or your role in life - understand the CONTEXT
Currently there is a very strong movement for dressing classically or grown up - EXERENT!
Unless you are only in your teens or 20s.
Many young men asking advice on what to wear or how to look Grown Man.
May I suggest you enjoy making mistakes & dress like a Young Man.
Today is a fine example. The knit tie I wore was a gift from my Sistah over 20 years ago. Back then she would have bought it for aesthetic reasons & back then I was not ready to wear it. I so wanted to, I just did not have the confidence or role model to learn from (there was no internet - they were the dark ages).
I’m so glad that I saved it till the last 10 years.
But if I did not try it - I would not have learnt from my mistake.
- Personal style does not happen over night.
- Personal style is developed over years of mistakes.
- Personal style is not having to “over think” your choices.
- Personal style is knowing “your” punchline to a joke.
Details | Shades - RayBan “Round Metal” | Suit - P Johnson in Loro Piana “4 Season” flannel for GW | Shirt - P Johnson in Thomas Mason for GW | Tie - Jasper Conran wool knit (when he was designing clothes not interiors or furniture) | Collar Pin (used as tie pin) - Bottega Veneta | PS - Tom Fucking Ford | DubMunks - John Lobb 2010 St Crepin for Leather Soul
Layers of patterns..
Details | Jacket (part of suit) - Patrick Johnson in Loro Piana wool/cashmere for GW | Shirt - Ascot Chang for GW | Sweater - Comme des Garçon | Socks (yes) - Paul Smith | Hoofs - John Lobb “City II” in suede for Leather Soul for GW
Keeping it “simple”.. Yet interesting..
Details | Jacket (part of suit) - #PJohnson in Loro Piana “The Wave” for GW | Pocket Square - Drake’s Irish linen | Shirt - #PJohnson in Thomas Mason ‘cotton pique’ for GW | Tie - Kiton | Pantaloons (part of suit) - #PJohnson in Huddersfield summer worsted wool for GW | Hoofs - John Lobb “City II” in pewter suede on 7000 last for #LeatherSoul for GW
Don’t know why
> 50% chance of rain when I wear suede hoofs
> 50% chance of no rain when I don’t wear suede..
Details | Jacket (part of suit) - P Johnson Loro Piana “The Wave” for GW | Pocket Square - Drake’s Irish linen | Shirt - Ascot Chang Thomas Mason poplin for GW | Tie - Drakes cashmere | Belt - RLPL “black” alligator + silver deco slide buckle (I just realised that my belt & shoes didn’t match or compliment - shitz happens) | Pantaloons - Incotex | Hoofs - John Lobb “City II” Pewter suede 7000 last
Focus on me not the wall..
Monday basics | Shades - vintage Persol | Jacket (part of suit) - @PJohnson Loro Piana “The Wave” for GW | Pocket Square - Drake’s Irish linen | Shirt - @AscotChang Thomas Mason for GW | Tie - E. G. Capelli | Pantaloons - Incotex | DubMunks - John Lobb 2010 St Cripin’s for @LeatherSoul for GW
Monday already, feels like ground hog day.
There fore back to basics as it is easier said than done whilst most aim to out Lapo himself when that is bound to end in a hotel room bender..
Details | Jacket (part of suit) - @PJohnson in Loro Piana “The Wave” for GW | Pocket Square - Drakes Irish linen | Shirt - @AscotChang in Alumo for GW | Pantaloons (part of suit) - @PJohnson in Huddersfield summer worsted for GW | Hoofs - Pewter suede John Lobb “City II” @LeatherSoul for GW | Bag - Ettinger for @TheArmoury
It’s my Nephew’s 8th b/day today..
Details | Suit - P Johnson in Loro Piana wool/mohair “Airforce Blue” for GW | Pocket Square - Drake’s Irish linen | Shirt - Ascot Chang o Alumo for GW | Hoofs - John Lobb Prestige “Phillip II” in 7000 last for Leather Soul for GW | Umbrella - Fox of London for GW
Nothing wrong with black shoes
Details | Pantaloons - 10 YO Banana Republic | DubMunks - John Lobb 2010 St Crepins for Leather Soul for GW
Guido’s very very nice dbl monks - I want a pair
My issue is, I need a pair that doesn’t have that leather welt around the edge to make the shoe look refined on my feet (not that I have big feet). I love the look of men’s shoes on women - but there are details that need to be refined so that the shoes have the essence of the men’s but the right balance for women.