"It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle."
Ernest Hemingwayemail me if google hasn't got the answer..
I’m still getting messages/emails about “navy” vs “airforce blue” - so read on.
FYI - Originally posted early 2011 & I never got around doing a post comparing John Lobb to Crockett & Jones, unfortunately I won’t be.
Navy or Airforce?
There are times when navy (French or English) is too formal - especially days when you still need to suit up. This is when airforce blue shines - literally in the case of this particular cloth from Loro Piana as there is mohair mixed in with the wool. For those that are not familiar, mohair has a slight sheen that lights up when natural light hits it. Other times it will have a slight lustre or as I say DISCO..
Because of this lustre, I choose to downplay with more sombre items such as black shoes, mini butcher striped shirt & a rep tie. It’s all in the balance & the delivery.
Although we are in the last month of winter in Sydney, the weather is sunny with the air crisp & dry that just begs for drinking at the end of the day. The mornings & evening are still cool, whilst the middle of the day challenges ones choice of suiting.
Suddenly wearing flannels or heavy worsted cloths are a challenge as we live in a world of controlled environments.
This is when wool mixed with other fibres come to play as well as high performance wools
So, are you in the Navy or Airforce today?
Details | Suit & shirt - P Johnson for GW | Tie & PS - Drakes for The Armoury | Shoes - John Lobb “Phillip II” for Leather Soul
* & yes I will do a write up on shoes, in particular the difference between the “Philip II” by John Lobb versus the “Belgrave” by Crocket & Jones. Even though they are at different price scales, the style is very similar.. Or should it be on how I tie a double four in hand (though that may require a video)..
When to go ROUGH!
Silk or linen pocket square? The opposite in texture to your tie is a good guide but not necessarily the gospel as the total balance is the deciding factor.
Today I chose to wear a cashmere tie with burnt ochre & mid blue flecks on a light blue base. The texture of the tie is borderline fine tweed so a red on ecru gingham silk pocket square was an unexpected choice.
Usually one would wear calf shoes with a classic suiting as this wool/cashmere chalk stripe - but as the great Prince Edward & Gianni Agnelli has shown, brown suede is a great combination.
Again, all this is built on a white poplin shirt for foundation.
Details | Shade | RayBan “round metal” | Suit - P Johnson in Ariston wool/cashmere flannel silver chalk stripe on denim base | Shirt - Ascot Chang Thomas Mason “Silver Line” white poplin for GW | Tie - Drakes cashmere 7cm | PS - Facconable red on ecru base gingham silk | Wheels - John Lobb “City II” in Pewtere suede on 7000 last for Leather Soul
* From the archives as uncovered by a new follower
In need of cooling frappe to combat the heat when wearing RAW denim & LongWongs .. I am not prepared.
History lesson (from July 2011): I still get messages/emails about the pros/cons with MTO v bespoke.
Friday Business Casual in Blaze Orange
5th day of rain - EXERENT!
Details | Umbrella - Fox for GW | Pocket Square - Drake’s Irish linen | Jacket (part of suit) - @PJohnson in Loro Piana for GW | Shirt - @AscotChang in Thomas Mason for GW | Tie - Hermes knit tie | DubMunks - Edward Green “Westminster” Mole Suede for @LeatherSoul for GW | Bag - Ettinger for @TheArmoury
* take note of the shape & undisturbed line of the jacket even whilst holding up an umbrella.
There is nothing wrong with MTO if the tailor/fitter knows what he is doing which is unfortunately a rarity today. I have seen more “car wrecks” from E. Zegna “Su Misura” than a roller derby & they average more than 3 times the cost of a P Johnson MTO commission.