"It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle."
Ernest Hemingwayemail me if google hasn't got the answer..
I’m still getting messages/emails about “navy” vs “airforce blue” - so read on.
FYI - Originally posted early 2011 & I never got around doing a post comparing John Lobb to Crockett & Jones, unfortunately I won’t be.
Navy or Airforce?
There are times when navy (French or English) is too formal - especially days when you still need to suit up. This is when airforce blue shines - literally in the case of this particular cloth from Loro Piana as there is mohair mixed in with the wool. For those that are not familiar, mohair has a slight sheen that lights up when natural light hits it. Other times it will have a slight lustre or as I say DISCO..
Because of this lustre, I choose to downplay with more sombre items such as black shoes, mini butcher striped shirt & a rep tie. It’s all in the balance & the delivery.
Although we are in the last month of winter in Sydney, the weather is sunny with the air crisp & dry that just begs for drinking at the end of the day. The mornings & evening are still cool, whilst the middle of the day challenges ones choice of suiting.
Suddenly wearing flannels or heavy worsted cloths are a challenge as we live in a world of controlled environments.
This is when wool mixed with other fibres come to play as well as high performance wools
So, are you in the Navy or Airforce today?
Details | Suit & shirt - P Johnson for GW | Tie & PS - Drakes for The Armoury | Shoes - John Lobb “Phillip II” for Leather Soul
* & yes I will do a write up on shoes, in particular the difference between the “Philip II” by John Lobb versus the “Belgrave” by Crocket & Jones. Even though they are at different price scales, the style is very similar.. Or should it be on how I tie a double four in hand (though that may require a video)..
With Friday approaching, this was a good resurrection from a follower. Circa 2011.
Another Friday, another day for Business Casual
Even though it is the second day of spring - the air is still cool, hence the sweater.
When I find myself wearing a lot of similar tones, highlighting with the opposite tone in smaller dosages is the best way to balance the look. Such as the red toned silk pocket square & brown suede shoes.
Details | Knit - Loro Piana | Jacket (part of suit) - P johnson in Loro Piana wool/cashmere “gun check” for GW | PS - Tom Fucking Ford | Shirt - Ascot Chang in vintage Drakes private reserve shirting for GW (helps to know peeps) | Pantaloons - P Johnson in Loro Piana cotton fine pin cord for GW | DubMunks - Edward Green “Westminster” in Mole suede, 888 last in Dainite for Leather Soul | WatchClock - Panerai Radiomir #210
History lesson (from July 2011): I still get messages/emails about the pros/cons with MTO v bespoke.
Friday Business Casual in Blaze Orange
5th day of rain - EXERENT!
Details | Umbrella - Fox for GW | Pocket Square - Drake’s Irish linen | Jacket (part of suit) - @PJohnson in Loro Piana for GW | Shirt - @AscotChang in Thomas Mason for GW | Tie - Hermes knit tie | DubMunks - Edward Green “Westminster” Mole Suede for @LeatherSoul for GW | Bag - Ettinger for @TheArmoury
* take note of the shape & undisturbed line of the jacket even whilst holding up an umbrella.
There is nothing wrong with MTO if the tailor/fitter knows what he is doing which is unfortunately a rarity today. I have seen more “car wrecks” from E. Zegna “Su Misura” than a roller derby & they average more than 3 times the cost of a P Johnson MTO commission.
Don’t trust a man that doesn’t own a umbrella large enough for 2. & I don’t mean a disposable or golf umbrella. You want WOOD ;)
Details | Suit - @PJohnson Loro Piana wool/mohair for GW | Pocket Square - Drake’s Irish Linen | Shirt - @AcsotChang Thomas Mason for GW | Tie - @VandaFineClothing unlined 1st edition tie | Hoofs - Crocket & Jones “belgrave” | Bag - Ettinger for @TheArmoury | Umbrella - Fox for GW
*as discovered by a new follower. This from mid 2011.
With winter approaching in the northern hemisphere, I’ve been receiving a few messages about scarves. I prefer the sweater.
* Re-post from winter 2011
How do you wear a scarf?
You can’t, but you can wear a sweater.. Since last winter 2010 I have been receiving emails/messages why I wear a sweater around my shoulder like a scarf & why not just wear a scarf.
Simply put, a sweater covers more of the shoulders & hence keeps me warmer. Oh, I can also wear it when in the office.
* Yes I forgot to pull in the side tabs hence pantaloons are hanging lower than optimum in the top picture
Details | Suit - P Johnson for GW | Shirt - Ascot Chan for GW | Tie & knit - Loro Piana cashmere | DubMunks - Carmina for The Armoury
* from archives as discovered by a new follower
Windows, stripes & kissing buttons..
* I went through a phase of having leaving either one or two of the bottom buttons undone, now I just prefer to keep it buttoned & let other minds inquire.. Not everyone needs to know, just those close enough..
(Taken with Instagram at The Bunker)
An old-post that is doing its rounds at the moment that is very applicable to myself & in so answering why I’m not wearing suits anymore.
Simply put, my professional role specifies no suits, ties or pants which means understand the context.
Dress your age or your role in life - understand the CONTEXT
Currently there is a very strong movement for dressing classically or grown up - EXERENT!
Unless you are only in your teens or 20s.
Many young men asking advice on what to wear or how to look Grown Man.
May I suggest you enjoy making mistakes & dress like a Young Man.
Today is a fine example. The knit tie I wore was a gift from my Sistah over 20 years ago. Back then she would have bought it for aesthetic reasons & back then I was not ready to wear it. I so wanted to, I just did not have the confidence or role model to learn from (there was no internet - they were the dark ages).
I’m so glad that I saved it till the last 10 years.
But if I did not try it - I would not have learnt from my mistake.
- Personal style does not happen over night.
- Personal style is developed over years of mistakes.
- Personal style is not having to “over think” your choices.
- Personal style is knowing “your” punchline to a joke.
Details | Shades - RayBan “Round Metal” | Suit - P Johnson in Loro Piana “4 Season” flannel for GW | Shirt - P Johnson in Thomas Mason for GW | Tie - Jasper Conran wool knit (when he was designing clothes not interiors or furniture) | Collar Pin (used as tie pin) - Bottega Veneta | PS - Tom Fucking Ford | DubMunks - John Lobb 2010 St Crepin for Leather Soul
Since when did “RRL Slim Fit” fit like straight leg? #FirstWorldProblems
Some history lessons via my Sistah @ stoneleighgallery:
and that stance!
Details | Suit - Patrick Johnson for GW | Shirt - Ascot Chang for GW | Tie - Loro Piana | Pocket Square - Tom Ford | Watch - Lolex Explorer 1
Details | Sweater - Loro Piana “baby cashmere” | Shirt - chiodo | Pantaloons - PaulSmith+Rapha | Sneakers - CdG PLAY CHUCKS
That’s it - 4 days of white shirts, Grown Man shoes & jackets..
* Tomorrow is Friday & I feel like wearing chucks!
Details | Jacket (part of suit) - Patrick Johnson in Loro Piana wool/cashmere for GW | Sweater - Loro Piana “Baby Cashmere” | Shirt - Ascot Chang | Jeans - Rapha | Hoofs - Saint Crispin’s for Leather Soul for GW