Still getting emails & messages about fit “basics” - see below from the archives circa 2011

mostexerent:

COVER YOUR ASS

There is a common misconception that one should have the length of their jackets as short as possible to give the perception of hight via longer leg balance to shorter body. Unless you are a ‘hipster’ & going for that certain look that will make you cringe next season, don’t read on.

The same goes for the misconception of shorter men must avoid cuffs with pants.

BAR-HUMBUG!

There is no actual quantum science or emperical measure as we are all blessed with different body proportions as shapes.

But in my opinion it is best to understand your body proportions & shape then adhere to some certain guidelines not rules to make you look your best:

1. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
2. Sleeves of jacket should be no shorter than the natural flex point - where your hand meets your wrist (I will elaborate on my technique later) & not past where your thumb meets your hand
3. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
4. Shoulder of jacket not sit before or no more than 2cm from the end of your natural shoulder
5. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
6. Body of jacket not be so tight that you look like an extra from some bad commercial shoot of certain ‘FASHUN’ brands or Men’s “STYLE” magazines
7. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
8. The actual buttoning point at your natural waist (give or take a cm, lower is better) & you natural waist is roughly where your belly button is. DO NOT GET CONFUSED with wearing jeans as they tend to sit on YOUR HIPS, unless you have progressed to Grown Man Style dungarees ;)
9. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
10. Pants should sit as close as possible to your natural waist (see above) - pants are not jeans
11. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
12. Good tailoring is not tight fitting, good tailoring provides movement
13. Jacket MUST cover your ASS

As mentioned in an earlier post, Patrick Johnson (tailor) & I changed a few minor measurements with this suit to keep it as ‘classic’ as possible compared to my other suits.

1. Jacket is nearly 2cm longer (see comparison to yesterdays flannel chalk stripe) to add an unbroken line
2. ‘Roped’ versus ‘soft’ shoulder or ‘con rollino’ v ‘spalla camicia’
3. Waist points or buttoning dropped by 1cm & retained circumference measurements
4. Higher sleeve hole to add elegance & to lengthen the torso
5. Sleeve shape & length the same
6. Different pocket treatment (actually tucked in the flaps)
7. Pants are same

What do we see?

Other than the grey suit looking more English & the navy chalk looking more Italian - see the difference.

Where the (sleeve) ends

“My method” as no tailor I know uses this but agree it works for me

1. Stand “naturally” & let arms hang “naturally”
2. Raise hands so that they are parallel to the floor - yoga helps
3. Jacket sleeve kisses back of hand with no break, this is ‘my’ natural flex point & where I try & make sure all my sleeves finish
4. Ask tailor to pin or take measurement
5. Walk around & start again to make sure it is the same

Now have a look at the full body shots & see the consistency & the effects this gives me.

Is there a natural flow from shoulder to arm to wrist point & where the jacket finishes.

Finally - if your jacket body is too short (as in not covering your ass), your sleeves will look too long & hence throw the whole visual proportions out & the above will make no impact.

FWIW I am:

• 5’7” or 175cm. Not of model height
• 160 lb or 73 kg. Too many burgers & dumplings (UPDATE: currently 68 kg)
• 18.5” or 47cm across the shoulder. So wider than what my height dictates if I was ‘average’
• Rather not disclose my waist. Too many burgers & dumplings

The most important message - find a GOOD tailor that you connect with & TRUST him or her.

Details | Suit - P Johnson for GW | Shirt - Ascot Chang for GW | PS - Facconable | Tie - 15 YEAR OLD Channel (sheesh I have an old passport picture of me wearing this same tie) | Hoofs - John Lobb “Phillip II” on 7000 last for Leather Soul

More from winter 2011

mostexerent:

The Clash.. Italy calling..

Notes: Suit - P Johnson for GW, Shirt - Ascot Chan for GW, Tie & PS - Herringbone, Shoes - Crocket & Jones “Belgrave”, Grin - family shenanigans..

Monet or Picasso? It’s in the eye of the beholder …

• The following are some of the best ways to elevate one’s style, but if they’re not executed properly, they can also be a death knell (pun intended). 
• Monet - One of the most important things to understand is the balance between scales of pattern, colour competitions, and overall visual balance. Think of this as a reverse Monet painting: you only want the detail on close inspection. Ensure that the scale of the patterns are not too similar, otherwise the overall effect will look like porridge with too much brown sugar.  
• Picasso - Playing with colour is also important. A balance is needed.
• Humour - Perhaps the best way to elevate any execution, however, is learning how to laugh.
• Sum of all parts - Take this as an example. The suiting is a gun check pattern from Loro Piana’s A/W 2011  4 Seasons Book. The wool/cashmere flannel has cool tones and is highlighted by tobacco and chocolate checks, as well as a “Bondi blue” window pane. The white cotton shirt acts as a base. In my opinion, the white shirt is the anchor, not the accessories. The tie is a heavy silk (almost like grosgain) in French navy (not as dark as English navy) with ecru stripes. The silk pocket square has a dark blue background and a hibiscus flower print that is not evident until the square is opened. The edges to the square are also hand rolled.  Shoes are a dark brown in order to bring out the warm checks in the suiting; black shoes would have been too cold.
• Finally like my hibiscus print pocket square - only until closer inspection does one realise there is another layer to intrigue.. 

* Note that this is all second nature to me. It has taken many sartorial blunders & over 20 years of snarks to now where I actually don’t over-think this when I dress in the morning, or even the night before. My barometer is in how I feel when I wake up, the weather, and the context for the day. This is the only regard in which I think about it.

The cooler climes are approaching us in the Antipodes, so it’s timely that a follower has uncovered this from my archives.

FYI - this was originally posted about June 2011.

mostexerent:

Is it going to be too warm for flannel? & there will always be ripples..

Notes: Suit - P Johnson for GW, Shirt - Ascot Chan for GW, PS - Herringbone, Tie - E. G. Capelli, Shoes - Anthony Cleverley “Bodie” for Leather Soul

Trivia:

• 4 Seasons? This suiting is from Loro Piana 4 Seasons collection, not sure if they mean there are cloths for 4 different seasons or the cloth is designed for 4 seasons (in the Norther Hemisphere). Either way this grey flannel is baby soft to hand & about 220gms, should be good for winter & mid-seasons down here in the Antipodes 
• Button up or shut up! Those with sharp eyes will notice that I rarely button up my button down collars when wearing a tie. Gianni Agneli who most considered one of the most dapper & influential dudes to ever have graced this earth is responsible for quiet a few style quirks that has over time become me. I say time as it takes a certain amount of “balls” to shirk of the snarks, in real life or the internet. 
• Essential guidance: Every man should have at least one grey flannel suit - the grey flannel suit is as essential as the navy blazer. Single or double is really up to which side you dress ;)
• Barchetta - The little Italian boat. You will also notice that the breast pocket is besom & has a curve that follows the chest unlike my usual curved patch pocket.  Ethan & I agreed that to keep some formality this would be the better stylistic choice. Not to say I won’t commission a 3 patch pocket at a later date. 
• 5cm cuffs.. My favourite rule to break as most say this should be left to taller men.. FUK EM! I say as long as one has the balance & proportion, then why not.

Peacocks & Turkeys

So apparently I ruffled some tough “anon” turkeys the other day regarding my 30 sec critique of indochino.com..

http://mostexerent.tumblr.com/post/7192105802/this-is-bad-as-in-car-wreck-skimpy-lapels

My 30 sec critique captured what would have been an all day shoot by “professionals”. Let’s take this another step. If you were selling a product, would you not make sure that it is represented in the best light?

Have a look at Ralph Lauren or J Crew for example, their campaigns capture a story & highlight their products in positive light. Surprisingly one can look at an older Ralph Lauren print media & still be swept away.

Actually, I challenge you to click on the WWIW tag & see if you find collar gaps etc. Also factor in that I do not have a team of stylists & “professionals” or a “fluffer”. It’s just me, a trash can as a tripod & 10 sec timer. Also I am not a model size.

Admittedly I am not as eloquent as Jesse, but that’s just me.

Here is a link to Jesses, post in softer lighting

http://putthison.com/post/7215023321/collar-gaps-shoulder-divots-an-explanation

So back to the above pic - here’s me after a long day in the saddle so to speak. In theory I have very difficult shoulders to fit & in practice should be exhibiting “collar gap” as my shoulders are sloped not square.

But as Patrick (P Johnson Tailors) & Ethan (ex PJ & now at The Armoury) have MostExerent “critical eye” & patience, they have ensured my jackets fit.

So there.. Anything else from the “anon” tough club as it appears they are the majority of the nay sayers & thank you to the other positive messages.

I will try & provide my assessment over time targeting mainly at industry folk as they SHOULD know better.

Please don’t send me pics for assessments as it is best to just sit back & lurk more.

Shots fired!

Notes: SC & Shirt - P Johnson, Tie - vintage Hermes, PS - Kiton, Pantaloons - RL, Shoes - Carmina x The Armoury “Penny Loafers”

* please excuse the low par photography as I was bored & only had my iPhone4 at hand

** a new follower has re-blogged this from my archives (July 2011) & since then have made the rounds

When to go ROUGH!

Silk or linen pocket square? The opposite in texture to your tie is a good guide but not necessarily the gospel as the total balance is the deciding factor.

Today I chose to wear a cashmere tie with burnt ochre & mid blue flecks on a light blue base. The texture of the tie is borderline fine tweed so a red on ecru gingham silk pocket square was an unexpected choice.

Usually one would wear calf shoes with a classic suiting as this wool/cashmere chalk stripe - but as the great Prince Edward & Gianni Agnelli has shown, brown suede is a great combination.

Again, all this is built on a white poplin shirt for foundation.

Details | Shade | RayBan “round metal” | Suit - P Johnson in Ariston wool/cashmere flannel silver chalk stripe on denim base | Shirt - Ascot Chang Thomas Mason “Silver Line” white poplin for GW | Tie - Drakes cashmere 7cm | PS - Facconable red on ecru base gingham silk | Wheels - John Lobb “City II” in Pewtere suede on 7000 last for Leather Soul

* From the archives as uncovered by a new follower

*From last year (when I was a suit wearing frustrated executive for a IT Research & Consulting firm, as opposed to now a free wearing executive for the Orchard) - but will answer the recent slew of emails/messages. 

COVER YOUR ASS

There is a common misconception that one should have the length of their jackets as short as possible to give the perception of hight via longer leg balance to shorter body. Unless you are a ‘hipster’ & going for that certain look that will make you cringe next season, don’t read on.

The same goes for the misconception of shorter men must avoid cuffs with pants.

BAR-HUMBUG!

There is no actual quantum science or emperical measure as we are all blessed with different body proportions as shapes.

But in my opinion it is best to understand your body proportions & shape then adhere to some certain guidelines not rules to make you look your best:

1. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
2. Sleeves of jacket should be no shorter than the natural flex point - where your hand meets your wrist (I will elaborate on my technique later) & not past where your thumb meets your hand
3. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
4. Shoulder of jacket not sit before or no more than 2cm from the end of your natural shoulder
5. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
6. Body of jacket not be so tight that you look like an extra from some bad commercial shoot of certain ‘FASHUN’ brands or Men’s “STYLE” magazines
7. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
8. The actual buttoning point at your natural waist (give or take a cm, lower is better) & you natural waist is roughly where your belly button is. DO NOT GET CONFUSED with wearing jeans as they tend to sit on YOUR HIPS, unless you have progressed to Grown Man Style dungarees ;)
9. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
10. Pants should sit as close as possible to your natural waist (see above) - pants are not jeans
11. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
12. Good tailoring is not tight fitting, good tailoring provides movement
13. Jacket MUST cover your ASS

As mentioned in an earlier post, Patrick Johnson (tailor) & I changed a few minor measurements with this suit to keep it as ‘classic’ as possible compared to my other suits.

1. Jacket is nearly 2cm longer (see comparison to yesterdays flannel chalk stripe) to add an unbroken line
2. ‘Roped’ versus ‘soft’ shoulder or ‘con rollino’ v ‘spalla camicia’
3. Waist points or buttoning dropped by 1cm & retained circumference measurements
4. Higher sleeve hole to add elegance & to lengthen the torso
5. Sleeve shape & length the same
6. Different pocket treatment (actually tucked in the flaps)
7. Pants are same

What do we see?

Other than the grey suit looking more English & the navy chalk looking more Italian - see the difference.

Where the (sleeve) ends

“My method” as no tailor I know uses this but agree it works for me

1. Stand “naturally” & let arms hang “naturally”
2. Raise hands so that they are parallel to the floor - yoga helps
3. Jacket sleeve kisses back of hand with no break, this is ‘my’ natural flex point & where I try & make sure all my sleeves finish
4. Ask tailor to pin or take measurement
5. Walk around & start again to make sure it is the same

Now have a look at the full body shots & see the consistency & the effects this gives me.

Is there a natural flow from shoulder to arm to wrist point & where the jacket finishes.

Finally - if your jacket body is too short (as in not covering your ass), your sleeves will look too long & hence throw the whole visual proportions out & the above will make no impact.

FWIW I am:

• 5’7” or 175 170cm. Not of model height
• 160 lb or 73 kg. Too many burgers & dumplings
• 18.5” or 47cm across the shoulder. So wider than what my height dictates if I was ‘average’
• Rather not disclose my waist. Too many burgers & dumplings

The most important message - find a GOOD tailor that you connect with & TRUST him or her.

Details | Suit - P Johnson for GW | Shirt - Ascot Chang for GW | PS - Facconable | Tie - 15 YEAR OLD Channel (sheesh I have an old passport picture of me wearing this same tie) | Hoofs - John Lobb “Phillip II” on 7000 last for Leather Soul

Nom nom nom .. Baby Panda ..

SURPRISE!

*Dang, my suit still fits 😉

As captured by my Sistah

Details | DubMunks - MTO Edward Green suede “Westminster” on Dainite sole for GW | Socks - RLPL | Jeans - Rapha

stoneleighgallery:

Daily Guido…

wish I could wear his shoes…wearing oversized men’s clothes I can do, but not shoes!

Off to celebrate my good friend’s new role - BIG WIG for Burberry Aus..

Details | P Johnson “Solaro” “Soraro” jacket (part of suit) for GW | Ascot Chang shirt in Drake’s of London private reserve shirting for GW | Muji cotton webbing belt | S. Ambrossio pantaloons for GW | Common Projects | 

POW Check not Gun Check.. My SUPER BAD..

Details | Suit - P Johnson in Loro Piana wool/cashmere for GW | Pocket Square - Drake’s Irish Linen | Shirt - Ascot Chang in Thomas Mason for GW | Knit Tie - Kilgour | Boots - Edward Green MTO “Shannon” for Leather Soul for GW

I’m all for knit ties, gun check POW Check  boots & s l o w  l i v i n g …

(Taken with Instagram at The Bunker)

Summer is now winter down here in the Antipodes..

Excellent, let’s break in the EG MTO “Shannon” all the way from @LeatherSoul

Monday’s are always nicer when the mailman delivers..

*THANK YOU TOM @LeatherSoul

(Taken with Instagram at My Sand Pit)

Representing The East & West..

Details | Suit - @PJohnson Ariston cotton SoRaro for GW | Pocket Square - Drake’s Irish linen | Shirt - @AscotChang Thomas Mason “End-on-End” for GW | Tie - Herringbone | Munk - Edward Green Top Drawer “Oundle” in CRUP shell on 888 last for @LeatherSoul for GW | Bag - Ettinger