Last month I presented you the grey sports coat as a different option to navy, this month is navy - the question is what colour buttons have we chosen. 
FWIW navy SB, 3 roll 2, unlined, un padded, shirt sleeve head construction (spalla camicia), 3 curved patch pockets, working sleeve buttons and travel wool in a box weave (more refined version of “fresco”) for travel all the way from Naples (Orazio Luciano) via @pjohnsontailors for me. OCBD is my standard #bespoke offering from #ascotchang .
More tomorrow.

Last month I presented you the grey sports coat as a different option to navy, this month is navy - the question is what colour buttons have we chosen.

FWIW navy SB, 3 roll 2, unlined, un padded, shirt sleeve head construction (spalla camicia), 3 curved patch pockets, working sleeve buttons and travel wool in a box weave (more refined version of “fresco”) for travel all the way from Naples (Orazio Luciano) via @pjohnsontailors for me. OCBD is my standard #bespoke offering from #ascotchang .

More tomorrow.

Ambivalent.. We ready for some #pjohnsontailors #specialopps ..
FWIW | #threeoverone olive cotton #fieldjacket | #ascotchang #bespoke dusty punk #ocbd | #thearmoury dungarees | #alden for #leathersoul “unlined” chukkas on Leydon last |
 (at RanchoWongolini)

Ambivalent.. We ready for some #pjohnsontailors #specialopps ..

FWIW | #threeoverone olive cotton #fieldjacket | #ascotchang #bespoke dusty punk #ocbd | #thearmoury dungarees | #alden for #leathersoul “unlined” chukkas on Leydon last |

(at RanchoWongolini)

Take ONE: MsX #photobomb - which is better? 
FWIW | #nanamica navy goretex #fieldjacket | #carhartt navy cotton shawl collar cardigan | #gallo shot silk (caramel + blue) knit tie | #ascotchang #bespoke sky blue #ocbd |  
(at Appartmento Wongolini)

Take ONE: MsX #photobomb - which is better?

FWIW | #nanamica navy goretex #fieldjacket | #carhartt navy cotton shawl collar cardigan | #gallo shot silk (caramel + blue) knit tie | #ascotchang #bespoke sky blue #ocbd |  

(at Appartmento Wongolini)

Take TWO: sans MsX #photobomb - which is better? 
FWIW | #nanamica navy goretex #fieldjacket | #carhartt navy cotton shawl collar cardigan | #gallo shot silk (caramel + blue) knit tie | #ascotchang #bespoke sky blue #ocbd | 
(at Appartmento Wongolini)

Take TWO: sans MsX #photobomb - which is better?

FWIW | #nanamica navy goretex #fieldjacket | #carhartt navy cotton shawl collar cardigan | #gallo shot silk (caramel + blue) knit tie | #ascotchang #bespoke sky blue #ocbd |

(at Appartmento Wongolini)

On my way back from a “conversation with an explorer” - Tim Jarvis AM . 
Thanks Burberry for a insightful evening with a true #htfu . 
FWIW | #threeoverone olive cotton field jacket | #pjohnson navy tropical wool sports coat | #ascotchang #bespoke dusty punk #ocbd | #vandafineclothing seersucker unlined tie | #thearmoury dungarees | #saintcrispins Boudreaux calf austerity brogue for #leathersoul for “me” | #neworder #grownman #creativeprofessional #fujixpro1 #vscocam 
(Not at Porky’s)

On my way back from a “conversation with an explorer” - Tim Jarvis AM .

Thanks Burberry for a insightful evening with a true #htfu .

FWIW | #threeoverone olive cotton field jacket | #pjohnson navy tropical wool sports coat | #ascotchang #bespoke dusty punk #ocbd | #vandafineclothing seersucker unlined tie | #thearmoury dungarees | #saintcrispins Boudreaux calf austerity brogue for #leathersoul for “me” | #neworder #grownman #creativeprofessional #fujixpro1 #vscocam

(Not at Porky’s)

Wrinkles - yes. 
FWIW | #threeoverone olive cotton field jacket | #pjohnson navy tropical wool sports coat | #ascotchang #bespoke dusty punk #ocbd | #vandafineclothing seersucker unlined tie |

Wrinkles - yes.

FWIW | #threeoverone olive cotton field jacket | #pjohnson navy tropical wool sports coat | #ascotchang #bespoke dusty punk #ocbd | #vandafineclothing seersucker unlined tie |

FYI - wearing a pocket square does not mean what you think these days. 
FWIW | fresh lemonade | #ascotchang #bespoke dusty punk #ocbd | #pjohnson for GW 1 button curved patch pocket blazer | 
(at Officeworks)

FYI - wearing a pocket square does not mean what you think these days.

FWIW | fresh lemonade | #ascotchang #bespoke dusty punk #ocbd | #pjohnson for GW 1 button curved patch pocket blazer |

(at Officeworks)

The Orchard beckons. 
FWIW | #threeoverone olive canvas field jacket | #ascotchang #bespoke white #ocbd | #ezegna chocolate cotton knit tie | #thearmoury dungarees | #alden unlined chukka for #leathersoul | #porter man-tote | 
(at SomeRandomRunway)

The Orchard beckons.

FWIW | #threeoverone olive canvas field jacket | #ascotchang #bespoke white #ocbd | #ezegna chocolate cotton knit tie | #thearmoury dungarees | #alden unlined chukka for #leathersoul | #porter man-tote |

(at SomeRandomRunway)

Field jacket over sports coat? Can can do! 
FWIW | #porter #madeinjapan fishing/camera bag | #threeoverone olive canvas #fieldjacket | #pjohnson #mto navy #loropiana “the wave” high performance tropical weight wool coat (part of suit) | #ascotchang #bespoke blue Oxford cloth BD | #rapha + RAEBURN “city jeans” | #alden for #leathersoul black shell cordovan LongWongs | 
*FYI shot at total low light 
(at Gelato Messina)

Field jacket over sports coat? Can can do!

FWIW | #porter #madeinjapan fishing/camera bag | #threeoverone olive canvas #fieldjacket | #pjohnson #mto navy #loropiana “the wave” high performance tropical weight wool coat (part of suit) | #ascotchang #bespoke blue Oxford cloth BD | #rapha + RAEBURN “city jeans” | #alden for #leathersoul black shell cordovan LongWongs | 

*FYI shot at total low light

(at Gelato Messina)

Thinking & wondering if I will be “dead man walking” by breaking some rules at the orchard.. 
FWIW | #ThreeOverOne olive cotton canvas field coat | #ascotchang #bespoke washed punk Oxford cloth BD + GFY initials | #Drakes for #pjohnson shot silk (black &navy) crunchy knit tie | #ascotchang denim dungarees | #alden + #leathersoul cinnamon suede flex sole boots | Lolex | .. 
(at Appartmento Wongolini)

Thinking & wondering if I will be “dead man walking” by breaking some rules at the orchard..

FWIW | #ThreeOverOne olive cotton canvas field coat | #ascotchang #bespoke washed punk Oxford cloth BD + GFY initials | #Drakes for #pjohnson shot silk (black &navy) crunchy knit tie | #ascotchang denim dungarees | #alden + #leathersoul cinnamon suede flex sole boots | Lolex | ..

(at Appartmento Wongolini)

Going to start breaking some rules.. 
FWIW | #ThreeOverOne olive cotton canvas field coat | #ascotchang #bespoke washed punk Oxford cloth BD + GFY initials | #Drakes for #pjohnson shot silk (black & navy) crunchy knit tie | #ascotchang denim dungarees | #alden + #leathersoul cinnamon suede flex sole boots (not visible) .. 
(at Appartmento Wongolini)

Going to start breaking some rules..

FWIW | #ThreeOverOne olive cotton canvas field coat | #ascotchang #bespoke washed punk Oxford cloth BD + GFY initials | #Drakes for #pjohnson shot silk (black & navy) crunchy knit tie | #ascotchang denim dungarees | #alden + #leathersoul cinnamon suede flex sole boots (not visible) ..

(at Appartmento Wongolini)

* a blast from 2009

45 seconds from a storm, set aperture, ISO, speed, & focus (all manual).. But some how it all came together with my M8

Details: Suit - A&S | Shirt - Ascot Chang for GW | Tie - Herringbone | Shoes - MTO Vass “austerity brogue” on U-Last | Watch - IWC Ingenieur | Ring - Bottega Veneta

(via mostexerent)

Still getting emails & messages about fit “basics” - see below from the archives circa 2011

mostexerent:

COVER YOUR ASS

There is a common misconception that one should have the length of their jackets as short as possible to give the perception of hight via longer leg balance to shorter body. Unless you are a ‘hipster’ & going for that certain look that will make you cringe next season, don’t read on.

The same goes for the misconception of shorter men must avoid cuffs with pants.

BAR-HUMBUG!

There is no actual quantum science or emperical measure as we are all blessed with different body proportions as shapes.

But in my opinion it is best to understand your body proportions & shape then adhere to some certain guidelines not rules to make you look your best:

  1. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
  2. Sleeves of jacket should be no shorter than the natural flex point - where your hand meets your wrist (I will elaborate on my technique later) & not past where your thumb meets your hand
  3. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
  4. Shoulder of jacket not sit before or no more than 2cm from the end of your natural shoulder
  5. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
  6. Body of jacket not be so tight that you look like an extra from some bad commercial shoot of certain ‘FASHUN’ brands or Men’s “STYLE” magazines
  7. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
  8. The actual buttoning point at your natural waist (give or take a cm, lower is better) & you natural waist is roughly where your belly button is. DO NOT GET CONFUSED with wearing jeans as they tend to sit on YOUR HIPS, unless you have progressed to Grown Man Style dungarees ;)
  9. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
  10. Pants should sit as close as possible to your natural waist (see above) - pants are not jeans
  11. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
  12. Good tailoring is not tight fitting, good tailoring provides movement
  13. Jacket MUST cover your ASS

As mentioned in an earlier post, Patrick Johnson (tailor) & I changed a few minor measurements with this suit to keep it as ‘classic’ as possible compared to my other suits.

  1. Jacket is nearly 2cm longer (see comparison to yesterdays flannel chalk stripe) to add an unbroken line
  2. ‘Roped’ versus ‘soft’ shoulder or ‘con rollino’ v ‘spalla camicia’
  3. Waist points or buttoning dropped by 1cm & retained circumference measurements
  4. Higher sleeve hole to add elegance & to lengthen the torso
  5. Sleeve shape & length the same
  6. Different pocket treatment (actually tucked in the flaps)
  7. Pants are same

What do we see?

Other than the grey suit looking more English & the navy chalk looking more Italian - see the difference.

Where the (sleeve) ends

“My method” as no tailor I know uses this but agree it works for me

  1. Stand “naturally” & let arms hang “naturally”
  2. Raise hands so that they are parallel to the floor - yoga helps
  3. Jacket sleeve kisses back of hand with no break, this is ‘my’ natural flex point & where I try & make sure all my sleeves finish
  4. Ask tailor to pin or take measurement
  5. Walk around & start again to make sure it is the same

Now have a look at the full body shots & see the consistency & the effects this gives me.

Is there a natural flow from shoulder to arm to wrist point & where the jacket finishes.

Finally - if your jacket body is too short (as in not covering your ass), your sleeves will look too long & hence throw the whole visual proportions out & the above will make no impact.

FWIW I am:

  • 5’7” or 175cm. Not of model height
  • 160 lb or 73 kg. Too many burgers & dumplings (UPDATE: currently 68 kg)
  • 18.5” or 47cm across the shoulder. So wider than what my height dictates if I was ‘average’
  • Rather not disclose my waist. Too many burgers & dumplings

The most important message - find a GOOD tailor that you connect with & TRUST him or her.

Details | Suit - P Johnson for GW | Shirt - Ascot Chang for GW | PS - Facconable | Tie - 15 YEAR OLD Channel (sheesh I have an old passport picture of me wearing this same tie) | Hoofs - John Lobb “Phillip II” on 7000 last for Leather Soul

More from winter 2011

mostexerent:

The Clash.. Italy calling..

Notes: Suit - P Johnson for GW, Shirt - Ascot Chan for GW, Tie & PS - Herringbone, Shoes - Crocket & Jones “Belgrave”, Grin - family shenanigans..

Monet or Picasso? It’s in the eye of the beholder …

  • The following are some of the best ways to elevate one’s style, but if they’re not executed properly, they can also be a death knell (pun intended). 
  • Monet - One of the most important things to understand is the balance between scales of pattern, colour competitions, and overall visual balance. Think of this as a reverse Monet painting: you only want the detail on close inspection. Ensure that the scale of the patterns are not too similar, otherwise the overall effect will look like porridge with too much brown sugar.  
  • Picasso - Playing with colour is also important. A balance is needed.
  • Humour - Perhaps the best way to elevate any execution, however, is learning how to laugh.
  • Sum of all parts - Take this as an example. The suiting is a gun check pattern from Loro Piana’s A/W 2011  4 Seasons Book. The wool/cashmere flannel has cool tones and is highlighted by tobacco and chocolate checks, as well as a “Bondi blue” window pane. The white cotton shirt acts as a base. In my opinion, the white shirt is the anchor, not the accessories. The tie is a heavy silk (almost like grosgain) in French navy (not as dark as English navy) with ecru stripes. The silk pocket square has a dark blue background and a hibiscus flower print that is not evident until the square is opened. The edges to the square are also hand rolled.  Shoes are a dark brown in order to bring out the warm checks in the suiting; black shoes would have been too cold.
  • Finally like my hibiscus print pocket square - only until closer inspection does one realise there is another layer to intrigue.. 

* Note that this is all second nature to me. It has taken many sartorial blunders & over 20 years of snarks to now where I actually don’t over-think this when I dress in the morning, or even the night before. My barometer is in how I feel when I wake up, the weather, and the context for the day. This is the only regard in which I think about it.

The cooler climes are approaching us in the Antipodes, so it’s timely that a follower has uncovered this from my archives.

FYI - this was originally posted about June 2011.

mostexerent:

Is it going to be too warm for flannel? & there will always be ripples..

Notes: Suit - P Johnson for GW, Shirt - Ascot Chan for GW, PS - Herringbone, Tie - E. G. Capelli, Shoes - Anthony Cleverley “Bodie” for Leather Soul

Trivia:

  • 4 Seasons? This suiting is from Loro Piana 4 Seasons collection, not sure if they mean there are cloths for 4 different seasons or the cloth is designed for 4 seasons (in the Norther Hemisphere). Either way this grey flannel is baby soft to hand & about 220gms, should be good for winter & mid-seasons down here in the Antipodes 
  • Button up or shut up! Those with sharp eyes will notice that I rarely button up my button down collars when wearing a tie. Gianni Agneli who most considered one of the most dapper & influential dudes to ever have graced this earth is responsible for quiet a few style quirks that has over time become me. I say time as it takes a certain amount of “balls” to shirk of the snarks, in real life or the internet. 
  • Essential guidance: Every man should have at least one grey flannel suit - the grey flannel suit is as essential as the navy blazer. Single or double is really up to which side you dress ;)
  • Barchetta - The little Italian boat. You will also notice that the breast pocket is besom & has a curve that follows the chest unlike my usual curved patch pocket.  Ethan & I agreed that to keep some formality this would be the better stylistic choice. Not to say I won’t commission a 3 patch pocket at a later date. 
  • 5cm cuffs.. My favourite rule to break as most say this should be left to taller men.. FUK EM! I say as long as one has the balance & proportion, then why not.