"It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle."
Ernest Hemingwayemail me if google hasn't got the answer..
45 seconds from a storm, set aperture, ISO, speed, & focus (all manual).. But some how it all came together with my M8
Details: Suit - A&S | Shirt - Ascot Chang for GW | Tie - Herringbone | Shoes - MTO Vass “austerity brogue” on U-Last | Watch - IWC Ingenieur | Ring - Bottega Veneta
Still getting emails & messages about fit “basics” - see below from the archives circa 2011
COVER YOUR ASS
There is a common misconception that one should have the length of their jackets as short as possible to give the perception of hight via longer leg balance to shorter body. Unless you are a ‘hipster’ & going for that certain look that will make you cringe next season, don’t read on.
The same goes for the misconception of shorter men must avoid cuffs with pants.
There is no actual quantum science or emperical measure as we are all blessed with different body proportions as shapes.
But in my opinion it is best to understand your body proportions & shape then adhere to some certain guidelines not rules to make you look your best:
As mentioned in an earlier post, Patrick Johnson (tailor) & I changed a few minor measurements with this suit to keep it as ‘classic’ as possible compared to my other suits.
What do we see?
Other than the grey suit looking more English & the navy chalk looking more Italian - see the difference.
Where the (sleeve) ends
“My method” as no tailor I know uses this but agree it works for me
Now have a look at the full body shots & see the consistency & the effects this gives me.
Is there a natural flow from shoulder to arm to wrist point & where the jacket finishes.
Finally - if your jacket body is too short (as in not covering your ass), your sleeves will look too long & hence throw the whole visual proportions out & the above will make no impact.
FWIW I am:
The most important message - find a GOOD tailor that you connect with & TRUST him or her.
Details | Suit - P Johnson for GW | Shirt - Ascot Chang for GW | PS - Facconable | Tie - 15 YEAR OLD Channel (sheesh I have an old passport picture of me wearing this same tie) | Hoofs - John Lobb “Phillip II” on 7000 last for Leather Soul
More from winter 2011
The Clash.. Italy calling..
Notes: Suit - P Johnson for GW, Shirt - Ascot Chan for GW, Tie & PS - Herringbone, Shoes - Crocket & Jones “Belgrave”, Grin - family shenanigans..
Monet or Picasso? It’s in the eye of the beholder …
* Note that this is all second nature to me. It has taken many sartorial blunders & over 20 years of snarks to now where I actually don’t over-think this when I dress in the morning, or even the night before. My barometer is in how I feel when I wake up, the weather, and the context for the day. This is the only regard in which I think about it.
The cooler climes are approaching us in the Antipodes, so it’s timely that a follower has uncovered this from my archives.
FYI - this was originally posted about June 2011.
Is it going to be too warm for flannel? & there will always be ripples..
Notes: Suit - P Johnson for GW, Shirt - Ascot Chan for GW, PS - Herringbone, Tie - E. G. Capelli, Shoes - Anthony Cleverley “Bodie” for Leather Soul
When to go ROUGH!
Silk or linen pocket square? The opposite in texture to your tie is a good guide but not necessarily the gospel as the total balance is the deciding factor.
Today I chose to wear a cashmere tie with burnt ochre & mid blue flecks on a light blue base. The texture of the tie is borderline fine tweed so a red on ecru gingham silk pocket square was an unexpected choice.
Usually one would wear calf shoes with a classic suiting as this wool/cashmere chalk stripe - but as the great Prince Edward & Gianni Agnelli has shown, brown suede is a great combination.
Again, all this is built on a white poplin shirt for foundation.
Details | Shade | RayBan “round metal” | Suit - P Johnson in Ariston wool/cashmere flannel silver chalk stripe on denim base | Shirt - Ascot Chang Thomas Mason “Silver Line” white poplin for GW | Tie - Drakes cashmere 7cm | PS - Facconable red on ecru base gingham silk | Wheels - John Lobb “City II” in Pewtere suede on 7000 last for Leather Soul
* From the archives as uncovered by a new follower
With winter approaching in the northern hemisphere, I’ve been receiving a few messages about scarves. I prefer the sweater.
* Re-post from winter 2011
How do you wear a scarf?
You can’t, but you can wear a sweater.. Since last winter 2010 I have been receiving emails/messages why I wear a sweater around my shoulder like a scarf & why not just wear a scarf.
Simply put, a sweater covers more of the shoulders & hence keeps me warmer. Oh, I can also wear it when in the office.
* Yes I forgot to pull in the side tabs hence pantaloons are hanging lower than optimum in the top picture
Details | Suit - P Johnson for GW | Shirt - Ascot Chan for GW | Tie & knit - Loro Piana cashmere | DubMunks - Carmina for The Armoury
With the heat approaching, out comes the “seersucker” button down + infamous PG collar roll only achievable via bespoke option 😉