More history lessons from my Sistah @ stoneleighgallery:
Daily Guido
and this, amongst many variations that I have, is certainly my brother’s signature stance
Details | Suit - Patrick Johnson for GW | Shirt - Ascot Chang for GW | Tie - Tom Ford | Pocket Square - Herringbone | Pochette - Comme des Garçons
Yes I used to be a suit wearing executive..
& worse, I sinned by unbuttoning my sleeves..
* all jokes aside, great capture by EthanDesu of me one morning over coffee.
More blasts from the past, this was back in 2009.
*I see people are finally looking into my archives as over the last few weeks, there have been lots of re-blogs or likes..
Felt like tweed after being inspired by tweed SC with yellow elbow pads..
http://mostexerent.tumblr.com/post/1036405999/thanks-nickelcobalt-winslow-and-i-saw-this-in
http://closeupandprivate.com/site/index.php?/issue-02/-autumn-winter-2010/
This is not as fancy..
Notes to stop my brog-box from filling up ;o)
- Sports Coat - Caramel Check. Wool/Silk. 3R2 SB. Twin vent. 2 x flapped (tucked) hip pockets. PRL Made in Italy
- PS - Blue + white dots & boarder. Silk. Herringbone AW08
- Shirt - Light blue. HBD. Single cuff. Fine cotton Oxford. Bespoke
- Tie - Chocolate + ecru + blue regimental stripe. Silk. Herringbone SS09
- Trou - Grey. Wool/Mohair. Single forward pleat. 5cm cuff. Bespoke
- Socks - Navy with white dots. Cotton. Pantherella
- Shoes - Dark brown. Calf. “3 eye” blucher. MTO Vass on U-last
- Bag - Tan cotton/nylon tote. Porter of Japan
This was me 2.5 years ago & I still have everything.
I want to point out the pocket square from my great friends Jerald & Diane from #VandaFineClothing. This was one of their prototypes made from vintage Japanese kimono cloth.
* Thank you for who ever trawled through my archives.
Details | Herringbone OTR suit | Ascot Chang for GW | Herringbone tie | Vanda Fine Clothing pocket square | Bottega Veneta tie clip |
that floor
Representing The East & West..
Details | Suit - @PJohnson Ariston cotton SoRaro for GW | Pocket Square - Drake’s Irish linen | Shirt - @AscotChang Thomas Mason “End-on-End” for GW | Tie - Herringbone | Munk - Edward Green Top Drawer “Oundle” in CRUP shell on 888 last for @LeatherSoul for GW | Bag - Ettinger
Trust me, it’s safe out there..
Details | Shades - Tom Fucking Ford | Suit - @PJohnson Loro Piana “Zelander” | Pocket Square - Drake’s Irish linen | Shirt - @AscotChang Thomas Mason for GW | Tie - Herringbone | Hoofs - Crocket & Jones “Belgrave” | Bag - Ettinger for @TheArmoury
Mr Herringbone & Mr Johnson..
* B/fast today with “2 TOP BLOKES” of Australian menswear..
What did we talk about?
- Angry Birds
- 2011 Rugby World Cup
- Angry Birds
- Road Cycling
- EthanDesu’s shoe fetish
- World domination
- Fast cars.. Fast WIMIN..
“Can Can Do”.. (as I hear too much in the land of “The Truman Show” - Singapore).. When the truth is “no can can LAH”..
So the challenge as often asked - can anyone wear a double breasted suit without looking like a “fluffier” come “doppelgänger” exiting the set of a bad 90s porn film set.
Yes & No - there really is no definitive or scientific answer other than are you the star, starlet or …
The real question is, do you have the gravitas to wear a DB. Good tailoring can only do so much to hide one’s lack of. This also applies to most general style/sartorial questions I get asked every day. If you have to ask, then just maybe you are not at that place yet but not to say you won’t be tomorrow.
The DB is where FIT, BALANCE & PROPORTION is PARAMOUNT & unless you are gifted with good proportions, Made-to-Measure or bespoke is the best way.
This particular DB was my second MmMBC (Mystery MicroManageMent Bespoke Commission) & it took a long time, hence the “MicroManagement” as I chose to use a tailoring shop in Hong Kong that has good workmanship but required a STRONG guiding hand by a friend who has deep experience with the Northern Italian tailoring houses for aesthetic reasons & my self (the “fluffee” not “fluffier”)..
Interestingly the fit is OK even though I have lost some body mass over the last few years. But as I have always stated, start at the shoulders & then follow through as one’s foundation is the shoulder & this is your skeletal structure
On wearing this morning I immediately noticed some fit issues primarily due to my current smaller waist (weird, but true.. They must have removed the lard from the Shanghai dumplings) & not till I looked at the photos did I agree that all is still good. Like I harp on, GOOD FIT IS NOT TIGHT FIT..
Would I do this again? Maybe as it took quite some time & the process is very good for one’s yoga training. Luckily we did not have to re-order more cloth as have before with other commissions during the earlier days.
I hope this provides some insight to all the emails/messages & why I don’t recommend any tailoring houses in Asia, as there are many limitations on both sides of the counter. You & him/her.
Recently I embarked on another DB commission less the mM, this one will be slightly different in stylistic details so we will have to wait.
http://mostexerent.tumblr.com/post/11694324729/everyone-needs-a-dove-grey-db-in-a-open-weave
In summary, I have discussed the above a few times now, so please click on the below links as there is nothing else to add as I use my posts to answer many emails at once (& recently there have been a lot about DBs & men of shorter stature).
http://mostexerent.tumblr.com/post/8626589367/micro-management-one-of-the-joys-of-living-in-hkg
http://mostexerent.tumblr.com/post/752298114/double-trouble-in-the-land-of-invisible-men-in
BUT THE REAL REASON FOR THIS POST - NiceTryBro HATES DBS & I would like to offer him my CHALLENGE ;)
For those that are not following or aware.. Do visit as he has a solid voice & definite SNARK that I appreciate..
In closing, bespoke tailoring is no different to a film production, everyone has a role & a star!
Details | Suit - MmMBC in 8.5 oz SummerPhasco for GW | Shirt - MBC in mystery linen for GW | Tie - Herringbone | Pocket Square - Drakes | Shades - vintage Moscot “Lemtosh” | Hoofs - Crocket & Jones “Begrave” (my foul weather & travel beaters)
I am a “sun dial”..
* My shirt sleeves are hiding from the sun for maximum cooling effect
Details: Suit - P Johnson in Loro Piana “Zelander” for GW | Shirt - P Johnson for GW | Pocket Square - Tom Fuking Ford | Tie - Herringbone | DubMunks - John Lobb 2010 St Crepins for Leather Soul for GW | Shades - vintage Moscot “Lemtosh”
That “nice pochette” is >10 years old from Comme des Garcons..
* I change the reason for using it all the time, when local it is for change & when travelling it is for ? I’ve used to carry devices before there were iPod/Phones.. Think back to Sony MD player!
Thursday Guido (nice pochette)