If you only ever need one tie - this will do.
* FWIW - I still have a few navy crunchy silk knit ties & a very special 2 tone (black & navy) one from Drakes.

If you only ever need one tie - this will do.

* FWIW - I still have a few navy crunchy silk knit ties & a very special 2 tone (black & navy) one from Drakes.

Many messages about other options besides a Rolex DateJust.
* The Omega Co-Axial line is very underrated, equally smart with bracelet, leather band or NATO strap

Many messages about other options besides a Rolex DateJust.

* The Omega Co-Axial line is very underrated, equally smart with bracelet, leather band or NATO strap

asuitofclothes reblogged your photo: 9 of my 10 bespoke shirts are TM & yes they are…

Real men dont need to to show their fabric label, even on a hidden part

Very valid point - my posts are to answer the messages I get & to pass the time during times of head scratching..

FWIW - most will not even notice discrete labels as opposed to labels sewn on the sleeve of jackets & coats or on scarfs. Those need to be removed!

GW

Digging my classics shit.. 
*Pre Luxotica buy-out - why can’t they just leave the core range! They have destroyed Persol with all the Steve McQueen BS.. Nearly bad as TAG, if only the general public knew that SMQ never wore Heuer outside of movies & rather buy a Rolex to wear.
#RantNotOver 
(Taken with Instagram at The Bunker)

Digging my classics shit..

*Pre Luxotica buy-out - why can’t they just leave the core range! They have destroyed Persol with all the Steve McQueen BS.. Nearly bad as TAG, if only the general public knew that SMQ never wore Heuer outside of movies & rather buy a Rolex to wear.

#RantNotOver

(Taken with Instagram at The Bunker)

Why? Strangely I have received a few messages about my thoughts on the Milgauss.
FWIW I like it, but would have had it by now if they had omitted all the polished surfaces as “tool” watches should not be shiny.
If it was I, sand blast all the shiny parts & swap out the bracelet for a NATO in dark green.

Why? Strangely I have received a few messages about my thoughts on the Milgauss.

FWIW I like it, but would have had it by now if they had omitted all the polished surfaces as “tool” watches should not be shiny.

If it was I, sand blast all the shiny parts & swap out the bracelet for a NATO in dark green.

ethandesu:

One of the greatest pleasures in life, to me, is interacting with people who have passion. Passion is infectious when it is honest and true, it changes the colour and taste of your world, gives you a small insight into another mind.

A few years ago I met an incredibly passionate and knowledgable gent - Papa Nui. His story was similar to mine - he followed his passion in clothing to Japan, where the vintage and military replica market was strongest. Being there in the mid to late nineties, he was there for the thick of the creative days. The domestic denim market boomed in ‘92 with Denime, Evis, Warehouse, Gardener. Military started to take off with Buzz in Nylon, McCoys in leather. Everyone was specialised, bringing something new and well thought out, seemingly trying to compete for who could be the most authentic, who could provide the highest quality. Papa was there, consulting to the industry and specifically to McCoys.

By the time I arrived in 2001, the industry had changed. McCoys had splintered off into Toys, RMNZ and Nylon. Evis was nearly Evisu, and the hip hop connection was beginning. There were new young guys coming up - Skull by Alchemist was then a shrine to the Beatles, and guys like Samurai were bringing new things. 45RPM was laying the foundation for brands like Kapital. It was exciting, but it was the second wave.

Meeting Papa, it was clear that this was a guy who understood. He had a wealth of knowledge that the RRL’s of the world needed, but he was too busy catching early morning waves to get himself out there and be noticed.

When Papa started producing small bits and pieces, it was a no brainer for me. If he is making something, I am buying it, that simple. That I can write to him and ask him first hand is something I value even more highly, as guys like this don’t come along that often. It is what makes my life slightly surreal and astonishing.

Papa x Old Salt

Factoid: I too am a “student” of Papa way before Ethan met him. For me it was not long after I finished school that I had the opportunity to spend some quality time listening to Papa talk about the aesthetics of style post WW2 & how important to have form & function as well as a understanding of balance. So it was a great surprise when Ethan asked me to meet Papa a few years back. It was a surprise as I knew Papa as Johnny T, & you can imagine the surprise when we caught up.

One of the great lessons Johnny T taught me was about the urban tribe & how we all fit into certain urban tribes be it Teddy Boys, Preppies, Rude Boys, Skin Heads, New Romantics, Ska etc. etc. & how  there was always a initiation before acceptance. Totally different now with the advent of the internet. Suddenly todays youth can research & in some ways buy into a tribe or as I say “dressed by the internet”, but in reality they are just buying time before reality sets in.

Anyway, the world is very different now for good or bad.

To SQUARE or not to SQUARE - I always find it interesting to see what has been re-blogged from my archives - & this has come up quite a bit over the last few days. Originally posted last year some time.

I had a funeral to attend yesterday & whilst getting dressed I questioned whether a pocket square is appropriate or not.

My thoughts were initially “no” as a funeral is a sombre event.

But then my Sistah said yes & only yes as I had a plain white square folded & not stuffed, puffed or some origami creation resembling the Sydney Opera House.

The other factor is how one presents themselves, does it look natural. This should answer the messages I get about wearing a pocket square - if you feel self conscious wearing one, then don’t. There is nothing worse than a fidgeter or the type you see constantly preening them selves in public or every chance they see a mirror.

If I was to nit-pic, the details of this suit is inappropriate & my other navy suit was not with me.

A black suit would have been more appropriate but other than a dinner suit, I can’t see why one would need a black suit unless they are in FASHUN or..

In my opinion a dark blue or navy suit paired with a white shirt, dark tie & black shoes is a good alternative. A dark grey suit is another option.

Either way, keep it clean, classic & minimalistic.

& yes I stuck with my folded pocket square.

What do you think?

My clean desk policy..
* no clutter & just the basics, not for everyone but definitely for me

My clean desk policy..

* no clutter & just the basics, not for everyone but definitely for me

To “LIVE & WEAR WITHOUT CARE”

For those that don’t know me long enough, I went through a “set-back” in 2001. I was diagnosed with a debilitating blood disorder & was told to live my dreams now as I only have 12 months before my body would give up.

I then walked home, the loneliest walk thinking why, what & how do I tell my family.

It was not till I saw my then 6 month old Niece in her cot crying, I picked her up & looked at her. She then stopped crying & I realised that I need to be around for a long long time.

It was, die living or live dying..

30 days passed before I shared the news with my immediate family.

Why 30 days? I wanted them to look back the last 30 days & tell me if they noticed anything different, they agreed nothing was different so I said let’s look forward as everything will be good.

I needed my family to know that I had a plan to beat the medical world & all was under control - most importantly, I needed them to hold it together as a family as I will for them.

Over the next few days I shared my situation with friends so as to know what will happen whilst I go through treatment & not to be alarmed when they see me, but to be confident that all will be good.

So every 21st of June (my birthday), I say to my self “LIVE & WEAR WITHOUT CARE” then look for my Niece & Nephew to hold onto as if it were my last chance.

Now you know where “live & wear without care” comes from & why I try & emphasis to not sweat over the details that really doesn’t matter, living well is far more important that dying to find the perfect fitting suit or losing sleep over whether DubMunks fit etc etc.

See you all tomorrow, next week, next month & next year!

It’s quite simple..
It’s not the size (Tall, Grande etc. etc) but the quality.
This applies to more than coffee..

It’s quite simple..

It’s not the size (Tall, Grande etc. etc) but the quality.

This applies to more than coffee..

Yes I know that Shimano & SRAM is just as good & better priced, but it isn’t CAMPAGNOLO..

Yes I know that Shimano & SRAM is just as good & better priced, but it isn’t CAMPAGNOLO..

Not for all as you need GRAVITAS to execute..
*The sun’s out here in London. And so are the neckerchiefs #londoncollections #attheshows (Taken with Instagram)

Not for all as you need GRAVITAS to execute..

*The sun’s out here in London. And so are the neckerchiefs #londoncollections #attheshows (Taken with Instagram)

*From last year (when I was a suit wearing frustrated executive for a IT Research & Consulting firm, as opposed to now a free wearing executive for the Orchard) - but will answer the recent slew of emails/messages. 

COVER YOUR ASS

There is a common misconception that one should have the length of their jackets as short as possible to give the perception of hight via longer leg balance to shorter body. Unless you are a ‘hipster’ & going for that certain look that will make you cringe next season, don’t read on.

The same goes for the misconception of shorter men must avoid cuffs with pants.

BAR-HUMBUG!

There is no actual quantum science or emperical measure as we are all blessed with different body proportions as shapes.

But in my opinion it is best to understand your body proportions & shape then adhere to some certain guidelines not rules to make you look your best:

  1. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
  2. Sleeves of jacket should be no shorter than the natural flex point - where your hand meets your wrist (I will elaborate on my technique later) & not past where your thumb meets your hand
  3. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
  4. Shoulder of jacket not sit before or no more than 2cm from the end of your natural shoulder
  5. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
  6. Body of jacket not be so tight that you look like an extra from some bad commercial shoot of certain ‘FASHUN’ brands or Men’s “STYLE” magazines
  7. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
  8. The actual buttoning point at your natural waist (give or take a cm, lower is better) & you natural waist is roughly where your belly button is. DO NOT GET CONFUSED with wearing jeans as they tend to sit on YOUR HIPS, unless you have progressed to Grown Man Style dungarees ;)
  9. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
  10. Pants should sit as close as possible to your natural waist (see above) - pants are not jeans
  11. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
  12. Good tailoring is not tight fitting, good tailoring provides movement
  13. Jacket MUST cover your ASS

As mentioned in an earlier post, Patrick Johnson (tailor) & I changed a few minor measurements with this suit to keep it as ‘classic’ as possible compared to my other suits.

  1. Jacket is nearly 2cm longer (see comparison to yesterdays flannel chalk stripe) to add an unbroken line
  2. ‘Roped’ versus ‘soft’ shoulder or ‘con rollino’ v ‘spalla camicia’
  3. Waist points or buttoning dropped by 1cm & retained circumference measurements
  4. Higher sleeve hole to add elegance & to lengthen the torso
  5. Sleeve shape & length the same
  6. Different pocket treatment (actually tucked in the flaps)
  7. Pants are same

What do we see?

Other than the grey suit looking more English & the navy chalk looking more Italian - see the difference.

Where the (sleeve) ends

“My method” as no tailor I know uses this but agree it works for me

  1. Stand “naturally” & let arms hang “naturally”
  2. Raise hands so that they are parallel to the floor - yoga helps
  3. Jacket sleeve kisses back of hand with no break, this is ‘my’ natural flex point & where I try & make sure all my sleeves finish
  4. Ask tailor to pin or take measurement
  5. Walk around & start again to make sure it is the same

Now have a look at the full body shots & see the consistency & the effects this gives me.

Is there a natural flow from shoulder to arm to wrist point & where the jacket finishes.

Finally - if your jacket body is too short (as in not covering your ass), your sleeves will look too long & hence throw the whole visual proportions out & the above will make no impact.

FWIW I am:

  • 5’7” or 175 170cm. Not of model height
  • 160 lb or 73 kg. Too many burgers & dumplings
  • 18.5” or 47cm across the shoulder. So wider than what my height dictates if I was ‘average’
  • Rather not disclose my waist. Too many burgers & dumplings

The most important message - find a GOOD tailor that you connect with & TRUST him or her.

Details | Suit - P Johnson for GW | Shirt - Ascot Chang for GW | PS - Facconable | Tie - 15 YEAR OLD Channel (sheesh I have an old passport picture of me wearing this same tie) | Hoofs - John Lobb “Phillip II” on 7000 last for Leather Soul

Test Shots #1: Suffice to say the recently released Olympus OM-D + Olympus Zuiko 45/1.8 deserves all the great reviews.

* All shots are straight from camera with no processing & shot in RAW

Test Shots #2: Suffice to say the recently released Olympus OM-D + Olympus Zuiko 45/1.8 deserves all the great reviews.

* Straight from camera with no processing & shot in RAW