I’m still amazed how many times this has been re-blogged, but not as amazed as commercial web sites claiming as their own..

Still getting emails & messages about fit “basics” - see below from the archives circa 2011

mostexerent:

COVER YOUR ASS

There is a common misconception that one should have the length of their jackets as short as possible to give the perception of hight via longer leg balance to shorter body. Unless you are a ‘hipster’ & going for that certain look that will make you cringe next season, don’t read on.

The same goes for the misconception of shorter men must avoid cuffs with pants.

BAR-HUMBUG!

There is no actual quantum science or emperical measure as we are all blessed with different body proportions as shapes.

But in my opinion it is best to understand your body proportions & shape then adhere to some certain guidelines not rules to make you look your best:

1. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
2. Sleeves of jacket should be no shorter than the natural flex point - where your hand meets your wrist (I will elaborate on my technique later) & not past where your thumb meets your hand
3. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
4. Shoulder of jacket not sit before or no more than 2cm from the end of your natural shoulder
5. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
6. Body of jacket not be so tight that you look like an extra from some bad commercial shoot of certain ‘FASHUN’ brands or Men’s “STYLE” magazines
7. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
8. The actual buttoning point at your natural waist (give or take a cm, lower is better) & you natural waist is roughly where your belly button is. DO NOT GET CONFUSED with wearing jeans as they tend to sit on YOUR HIPS, unless you have progressed to Grown Man Style dungarees ;)
9. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
10. Pants should sit as close as possible to your natural waist (see above) - pants are not jeans
11. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
12. Good tailoring is not tight fitting, good tailoring provides movement
13. Jacket MUST cover your ASS

As mentioned in an earlier post, Patrick Johnson (tailor) & I changed a few minor measurements with this suit to keep it as ‘classic’ as possible compared to my other suits.

1. Jacket is nearly 2cm longer (see comparison to yesterdays flannel chalk stripe) to add an unbroken line
2. ‘Roped’ versus ‘soft’ shoulder or ‘con rollino’ v ‘spalla camicia’
3. Waist points or buttoning dropped by 1cm & retained circumference measurements
4. Higher sleeve hole to add elegance & to lengthen the torso
5. Sleeve shape & length the same
6. Different pocket treatment (actually tucked in the flaps)
7. Pants are same

What do we see?

Other than the grey suit looking more English & the navy chalk looking more Italian - see the difference.

Where the (sleeve) ends

“My method” as no tailor I know uses this but agree it works for me

1. Stand “naturally” & let arms hang “naturally”
2. Raise hands so that they are parallel to the floor - yoga helps
3. Jacket sleeve kisses back of hand with no break, this is ‘my’ natural flex point & where I try & make sure all my sleeves finish
4. Ask tailor to pin or take measurement
5. Walk around & start again to make sure it is the same

Now have a look at the full body shots & see the consistency & the effects this gives me.

Is there a natural flow from shoulder to arm to wrist point & where the jacket finishes.

Finally - if your jacket body is too short (as in not covering your ass), your sleeves will look too long & hence throw the whole visual proportions out & the above will make no impact.

FWIW I am:

• 5’7” or 175cm. Not of model height
• 160 lb or 73 kg. Too many burgers & dumplings (UPDATE: currently 68 kg)
• 18.5” or 47cm across the shoulder. So wider than what my height dictates if I was ‘average’
• Rather not disclose my waist. Too many burgers & dumplings

The most important message - find a GOOD tailor that you connect with & TRUST him or her.

Details | Suit - P Johnson for GW | Shirt - Ascot Chang for GW | PS - Facconable | Tie - 15 YEAR OLD Channel (sheesh I have an old passport picture of me wearing this same tie) | Hoofs - John Lobb “Phillip II” on 7000 last for Leather Soul

I’m still getting messages/emails about “navy” vs “airforce blue” - so read on.

FYI - Originally posted early 2011 & I never got around doing a post comparing John Lobb to Crockett & Jones, unfortunately I won’t be.

mostexerent:

Navy or Airforce?

There are times when navy (French or English) is too formal - especially days when you still need to suit up. This is when airforce blue shines - literally in the case of this particular cloth from Loro Piana as there is mohair mixed in with the wool. For those that are not familiar, mohair has a slight sheen that lights up when natural light hits it. Other times it will have a slight lustre or as I say DISCO..

Because of this lustre, I choose to downplay with more sombre items such as black shoes, mini butcher striped shirt & a rep tie. It’s all in the balance & the delivery.

Although we are in the last month of winter in Sydney, the weather is sunny with the air crisp & dry that just begs for drinking at the end of the day. The mornings & evening are still cool, whilst the middle of the day challenges ones choice of suiting.

Suddenly wearing flannels or heavy worsted cloths are a challenge as we live in a world of controlled environments.

This is when wool mixed with other fibres come to play as well as high performance wools

So, are you in the Navy or Airforce today?

Details | Suit & shirt - P Johnson for GW | Tie & PS - Drakes for The Armoury | Shoes - John Lobb “Phillip II” for Leather Soul

* & yes I will do a write up on shoes, in particular the difference between the “Philip II” by John Lobb versus the “Belgrave” by Crocket & Jones. Even though they are at different price scales, the style is very similar.. Or should it be on how I tie a double four in hand (though that may require a video)..

More from winter 2011

mostexerent:

The Clash.. Italy calling..

Notes: Suit - P Johnson for GW, Shirt - Ascot Chan for GW, Tie & PS - Herringbone, Shoes - Crocket & Jones “Belgrave”, Grin - family shenanigans..

Monet or Picasso? It’s in the eye of the beholder …

• The following are some of the best ways to elevate one’s style, but if they’re not executed properly, they can also be a death knell (pun intended). 
• Monet - One of the most important things to understand is the balance between scales of pattern, colour competitions, and overall visual balance. Think of this as a reverse Monet painting: you only want the detail on close inspection. Ensure that the scale of the patterns are not too similar, otherwise the overall effect will look like porridge with too much brown sugar.  
• Picasso - Playing with colour is also important. A balance is needed.
• Humour - Perhaps the best way to elevate any execution, however, is learning how to laugh.
• Sum of all parts - Take this as an example. The suiting is a gun check pattern from Loro Piana’s A/W 2011  4 Seasons Book. The wool/cashmere flannel has cool tones and is highlighted by tobacco and chocolate checks, as well as a “Bondi blue” window pane. The white cotton shirt acts as a base. In my opinion, the white shirt is the anchor, not the accessories. The tie is a heavy silk (almost like grosgain) in French navy (not as dark as English navy) with ecru stripes. The silk pocket square has a dark blue background and a hibiscus flower print that is not evident until the square is opened. The edges to the square are also hand rolled.  Shoes are a dark brown in order to bring out the warm checks in the suiting; black shoes would have been too cold.
• Finally like my hibiscus print pocket square - only until closer inspection does one realise there is another layer to intrigue.. 

* Note that this is all second nature to me. It has taken many sartorial blunders & over 20 years of snarks to now where I actually don’t over-think this when I dress in the morning, or even the night before. My barometer is in how I feel when I wake up, the weather, and the context for the day. This is the only regard in which I think about it.

The cooler climes are approaching us in the Antipodes, so it’s timely that a follower has uncovered this from my archives.

FYI - this was originally posted about June 2011.

mostexerent:

Is it going to be too warm for flannel? & there will always be ripples..

Notes: Suit - P Johnson for GW, Shirt - Ascot Chan for GW, PS - Herringbone, Tie - E. G. Capelli, Shoes - Anthony Cleverley “Bodie” for Leather Soul

Trivia:

• 4 Seasons? This suiting is from Loro Piana 4 Seasons collection, not sure if they mean there are cloths for 4 different seasons or the cloth is designed for 4 seasons (in the Norther Hemisphere). Either way this grey flannel is baby soft to hand & about 220gms, should be good for winter & mid-seasons down here in the Antipodes 
• Button up or shut up! Those with sharp eyes will notice that I rarely button up my button down collars when wearing a tie. Gianni Agneli who most considered one of the most dapper & influential dudes to ever have graced this earth is responsible for quiet a few style quirks that has over time become me. I say time as it takes a certain amount of “balls” to shirk of the snarks, in real life or the internet. 
• Essential guidance: Every man should have at least one grey flannel suit - the grey flannel suit is as essential as the navy blazer. Single or double is really up to which side you dress ;)
• Barchetta - The little Italian boat. You will also notice that the breast pocket is besom & has a curve that follows the chest unlike my usual curved patch pocket.  Ethan & I agreed that to keep some formality this would be the better stylistic choice. Not to say I won’t commission a 3 patch pocket at a later date. 
• 5cm cuffs.. My favourite rule to break as most say this should be left to taller men.. FUK EM! I say as long as one has the balance & proportion, then why not.

RAW denim or WARM Cordovan.. What smells better? 

Today was one of those days that I said FUK THE RULES & chose to wear dungarees!

Dungarees? Grown Man jeans not Dad Jeans or Gen Y/X2.0 “drop crotch”, “skinny leg”, “drop ass” Hipsters - the difference:

• Premium RAW denim not bagged out stone-washed or some bizarre acid wash
• Straighter leg
• Higher rise as Grown Men tuck their shirts in
• Pin roll cuffs

* these are from ACL x Tellason & IMO great fitting jeans for me. I will do a post about these at a later date.

So this week we have discussed back fit & balance, so why not finish with the same.

This 280gm linen from Ariston is ideal when the season starts to warm up (as it is down here in the Antipodes). For example we are in the last days of winter & the weather is hovering between 19c - 22c at midday with cooler mornings & evenings.

Medium to heavy weight linen offers great drape as well as very mouldable to ones body. Being heavier, the creases are also not as hard.

Do yourself a favour & investigate in a medium to heavier weight linen.

Details | SC - P Johnson in Ariston linen for GW | Shirt - P Johnson in Thomas Mason twill for GW | PS - Drakes for The Armoury | Socks - Pantherella | Moccasins - Carmina for The Armoury | Bag - Ettinger “Wimbledon” for The Armoury

From the archives (approx. Nov 2011) as resurrected by a new follower

History lesson (from July 2011): I still get messages/emails about the pros/cons with MTO v bespoke.

mostexerent:

Don’t trust a man that doesn’t own a umbrella large enough for 2. & I don’t mean a disposable or golf umbrella. You want WOOD ;)

Details | Suit - @PJohnson Loro Piana wool/mohair for GW | Pocket Square - Drake’s Irish Linen | Shirt - @AcsotChang Thomas Mason for GW | Tie - @VandaFineClothing unlined 1st edition tie | Hoofs - Crocket & Jones “belgrave” | Bag - Ettinger for @TheArmoury | Umbrella - Fox for GW

*as discovered by a new follower. This from mid 2011.

*Another blast from the past - thank you new follower

mostexerent:

Solaro SoRaro reflects heat - Truth or Fiction?

Summer has finally arrived in Sydney, Australia & what better way to start than wearing a cotton “Solaro” suit.

It has been said that the weave was developed in such a way to reflect the suns bight - so far I have to agree.

Solaro cloth is recognisable by the fine herringbone weave, usually 2 colours (in this case khaki & plum). Solaro can be of cotton or wool. The wool variety is almost like gaberdine.

The hand (or feel) is quite special in that there is a certain heft yet soft to skin. The creases tend to also be soft not fine like normal cotton.

I’m looking forward to more cotton Solaro - maybe even a DB..

* note the shadows as the clouds move & then note that the tone of the suit changes ever so slightly, so hard to capture this..

Details: Shades - vintage Moscot “Lemtosh” in summer blonde | Suit - P Johnson in Ariston cotton “Solaro” ”SoRaro” for GW | Shirt - P Johnson in Thomas Mason for GW | Knit-tie - Drakes | Pocket Square - Linen Hermes | Socks - MUJI | Hoofs - John Lobb ” City II) in pewter suede on 7000 last for Leather Soul for GW

* from archives as discovered by a new follower

Windows, stripes & kissing buttons..

* I went through a phase of having leaving either one or two of the bottom buttons undone, now I just prefer to keep it buttoned & let other minds inquire.. Not everyone needs to know, just those close enough..

(Taken with Instagram at The Bunker)

*From last year (when I was a suit wearing frustrated executive for a IT Research & Consulting firm, as opposed to now a free wearing executive for the Orchard) - but will answer the recent slew of emails/messages. 

COVER YOUR ASS

There is a common misconception that one should have the length of their jackets as short as possible to give the perception of hight via longer leg balance to shorter body. Unless you are a ‘hipster’ & going for that certain look that will make you cringe next season, don’t read on.

The same goes for the misconception of shorter men must avoid cuffs with pants.

BAR-HUMBUG!

There is no actual quantum science or emperical measure as we are all blessed with different body proportions as shapes.

But in my opinion it is best to understand your body proportions & shape then adhere to some certain guidelines not rules to make you look your best:

1. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
2. Sleeves of jacket should be no shorter than the natural flex point - where your hand meets your wrist (I will elaborate on my technique later) & not past where your thumb meets your hand
3. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
4. Shoulder of jacket not sit before or no more than 2cm from the end of your natural shoulder
5. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
6. Body of jacket not be so tight that you look like an extra from some bad commercial shoot of certain ‘FASHUN’ brands or Men’s “STYLE” magazines
7. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
8. The actual buttoning point at your natural waist (give or take a cm, lower is better) & you natural waist is roughly where your belly button is. DO NOT GET CONFUSED with wearing jeans as they tend to sit on YOUR HIPS, unless you have progressed to Grown Man Style dungarees ;)
9. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
10. Pants should sit as close as possible to your natural waist (see above) - pants are not jeans
11. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
12. Good tailoring is not tight fitting, good tailoring provides movement
13. Jacket MUST cover your ASS

As mentioned in an earlier post, Patrick Johnson (tailor) & I changed a few minor measurements with this suit to keep it as ‘classic’ as possible compared to my other suits.

1. Jacket is nearly 2cm longer (see comparison to yesterdays flannel chalk stripe) to add an unbroken line
2. ‘Roped’ versus ‘soft’ shoulder or ‘con rollino’ v ‘spalla camicia’
3. Waist points or buttoning dropped by 1cm & retained circumference measurements
4. Higher sleeve hole to add elegance & to lengthen the torso
5. Sleeve shape & length the same
6. Different pocket treatment (actually tucked in the flaps)
7. Pants are same

What do we see?

Other than the grey suit looking more English & the navy chalk looking more Italian - see the difference.

Where the (sleeve) ends

“My method” as no tailor I know uses this but agree it works for me

1. Stand “naturally” & let arms hang “naturally”
2. Raise hands so that they are parallel to the floor - yoga helps
3. Jacket sleeve kisses back of hand with no break, this is ‘my’ natural flex point & where I try & make sure all my sleeves finish
4. Ask tailor to pin or take measurement
5. Walk around & start again to make sure it is the same

Now have a look at the full body shots & see the consistency & the effects this gives me.

Is there a natural flow from shoulder to arm to wrist point & where the jacket finishes.

Finally - if your jacket body is too short (as in not covering your ass), your sleeves will look too long & hence throw the whole visual proportions out & the above will make no impact.

FWIW I am:

• 5’7” or 175 170cm. Not of model height
• 160 lb or 73 kg. Too many burgers & dumplings
• 18.5” or 47cm across the shoulder. So wider than what my height dictates if I was ‘average’
• Rather not disclose my waist. Too many burgers & dumplings

The most important message - find a GOOD tailor that you connect with & TRUST him or her.

Details | Suit - P Johnson for GW | Shirt - Ascot Chang for GW | PS - Facconable | Tie - 15 YEAR OLD Channel (sheesh I have an old passport picture of me wearing this same tie) | Hoofs - John Lobb “Phillip II” on 7000 last for Leather Soul

An old-post that is doing its rounds at the moment that is very applicable to myself & in so answering why I’m not wearing suits anymore.

Simply put, my professional role specifies no suits, ties or pants which means understand the context.

mostexerent:

Dress your age or your role in life - understand the CONTEXT

Currently there is a very strong movement for dressing classically or grown up - EXERENT!

Unless you are only in your teens or 20s. 

Many young men asking advice on what to wear or how to look Grown Man.

May I suggest you enjoy making mistakes & dress like a Young Man.

Today is a fine example. The knit tie I wore was a gift from my Sistah over 20 years ago. Back then she would have bought it for aesthetic reasons & back then I was not ready to wear it. I so wanted to, I just did not have the confidence or role model to learn from (there was no internet - they were the dark ages).

I’m so glad that I saved it till the last 10 years.

But if I did not try it - I would not have learnt from my mistake.

• Personal style does not happen over night.
• Personal style is developed over years of mistakes.
• Personal style is not having to “over think” your choices.
• Personal style is knowing “your” punchline to a joke.

Details | Shades - RayBan “Round Metal” | Suit - P Johnson in Loro Piana “4 Season” flannel for GW | Shirt - P Johnson in Thomas Mason for GW | Tie - Jasper Conran wool knit (when he was designing clothes not interiors or furniture) | Collar Pin (used as tie pin) - Bottega Veneta | PS - Tom Fucking Ford | DubMunks - John Lobb 2010 St Crepin for Leather Soul

To SQUARE or not to SQUARE - I always find it interesting to see what has been re-blogged from my archives - & this has come up quite a bit over the last few days. Originally posted last year some time.

I had a funeral to attend yesterday & whilst getting dressed I questioned whether a pocket square is appropriate or not.

My thoughts were initially “no” as a funeral is a sombre event.

But then my Sistah said yes & only yes as I had a plain white square folded & not stuffed, puffed or some origami creation resembling the Sydney Opera House.

The other factor is how one presents themselves, does it look natural. This should answer the messages I get about wearing a pocket square - if you feel self conscious wearing one, then don’t. There is nothing worse than a fidgeter or the type you see constantly preening them selves in public or every chance they see a mirror.

If I was to nit-pic, the details of this suit is inappropriate & my other navy suit was not with me.

A black suit would have been more appropriate but other than a dinner suit, I can’t see why one would need a black suit unless they are in FASHUN or..

In my opinion a dark blue or navy suit paired with a white shirt, dark tie & black shoes is a good alternative. A dark grey suit is another option.

Either way, keep it clean, classic & minimalistic.

& yes I stuck with my folded pocket square.

What do you think?

Some history lessons via my Sistah @ stoneleighgallery:

See!

Daily Guido 

and that stance!

Details | Suit - Patrick Johnson for GW | Shirt - Ascot Chang for GW | Tie - Loro Piana | Pocket Square - Tom Ford | Watch - Lolex Explorer 1