So, understand the CONTEXT

Recently a few messages about why my change in style & this post from 2011 touched on it.

Simply put, I no longer work in a “suit & tie” environment - even the #1 of my company doesn’t wear a ”suit & tie”.

Which brings an interesting point - there was a time when a well tailored suit was akin to an armour to project power & status, when in todays world I see the reverse. Especially when the young or the uncomfortable are trying to assimilate #GrownManStyle when the experienced can see through their lack of gravitas.

I now see a reverse balance of power in professional settings, when the suits actually lose their composure.

My Mother & Sister are perfect examples, they dress with confidence in their own style.

Recently my Sister made a very relevant comment about the other “school mums” when she goes to pick up her daughter/son.. Why do “school mums” feel it necessary to always be in gym wear when it’s obvious they have not been or going to a gym. Consequently she receives a different attention.

So, understand the CONTEXT

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Dress your age or your role in life - understand the CONTEXT

May I suggest you enjoy making mistakes & dress like a Young Man.

• Personal style does not happen over night.
• Personal style is developed over years of mistakes.
• Personal style is not having to “over think” your choices.
• Personal style is knowing “your” punchline to a joke.

With the sudden change in seasons come rain & messages about appropriate footwear. Let’s be concise here, NO WELLIES in the CITY! & yes it’s OK to wear suede in the wet, just not consecutive days & make sure you allow them to dry out naturally.

Brought to you from the archives - this was circa 2011 but still very relevant 

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RAIN.. Then BUCKETS!

Notes: Suit & shirt - P Johnson, Tie - Loro Piana, PS - Herringbone, Boots - RM Williams, Umbrella - Fox

Suede in the rain.

Getting messages regarding the different should treatments I have for my Patrick Johnson suits - see below from the archives

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Something for everyone

1. Roped Shoulders
2. Padded Shoulders
3. Natural shoulders

With Friday approaching, this was a good resurrection from a follower. Circa 2011.

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Another Friday, another day for Business Casual

Even though it is the second day of spring - the air is still cool, hence the sweater.

When I find myself wearing a lot of similar tones, highlighting with the opposite tone in smaller dosages is the best way to balance the look. Such as the red toned silk pocket square & brown suede shoes.

Details | Knit - Loro Piana | Jacket (part of suit) - P johnson in Loro Piana wool/cashmere “gun check” for GW | PS - Tom Fucking Ford | Shirt - Ascot Chang in vintage Drakes private reserve shirting for GW (helps to know peeps) | Pantaloons - P Johnson in Loro Piana cotton fine pin cord for GW | DubMunks - Edward Green “Westminster” in Mole suede, 888 last in Dainite for Leather Soul | WatchClock - Panerai Radiomir #210

HAGWE

Peacocks & Turkeys

So apparently I ruffled some tough “anon” turkeys the other day regarding my 30 sec critique of indochino.com..

http://mostexerent.tumblr.com/post/7192105802/this-is-bad-as-in-car-wreck-skimpy-lapels

My 30 sec critique captured what would have been an all day shoot by “professionals”. Let’s take this another step. If you were selling a product, would you not make sure that it is represented in the best light?

Have a look at Ralph Lauren or J Crew for example, their campaigns capture a story & highlight their products in positive light. Surprisingly one can look at an older Ralph Lauren print media & still be swept away.

Actually, I challenge you to click on the WWIW tag & see if you find collar gaps etc. Also factor in that I do not have a team of stylists & “professionals” or a “fluffer”. It’s just me, a trash can as a tripod & 10 sec timer. Also I am not a model size.

Admittedly I am not as eloquent as Jesse, but that’s just me.

Here is a link to Jesses, post in softer lighting

http://putthison.com/post/7215023321/collar-gaps-shoulder-divots-an-explanation

So back to the above pic - here’s me after a long day in the saddle so to speak. In theory I have very difficult shoulders to fit & in practice should be exhibiting “collar gap” as my shoulders are sloped not square.

But as Patrick (P Johnson Tailors) & Ethan (ex PJ & now at The Armoury) have MostExerent “critical eye” & patience, they have ensured my jackets fit.

So there.. Anything else from the “anon” tough club as it appears they are the majority of the nay sayers & thank you to the other positive messages.

I will try & provide my assessment over time targeting mainly at industry folk as they SHOULD know better.

Please don’t send me pics for assessments as it is best to just sit back & lurk more.

Shots fired!

Notes: SC & Shirt - P Johnson, Tie - vintage Hermes, PS - Kiton, Pantaloons - RL, Shoes - Carmina x The Armoury “Penny Loafers”

* please excuse the low par photography as I was bored & only had my iPhone4 at hand

** a new follower has re-blogged this from my archives (July 2011) & since then have made the rounds

When to go ROUGH!

Silk or linen pocket square? The opposite in texture to your tie is a good guide but not necessarily the gospel as the total balance is the deciding factor.

Today I chose to wear a cashmere tie with burnt ochre & mid blue flecks on a light blue base. The texture of the tie is borderline fine tweed so a red on ecru gingham silk pocket square was an unexpected choice.

Usually one would wear calf shoes with a classic suiting as this wool/cashmere chalk stripe - but as the great Prince Edward & Gianni Agnelli has shown, brown suede is a great combination.

Again, all this is built on a white poplin shirt for foundation.

Details | Shade | RayBan “round metal” | Suit - P Johnson in Ariston wool/cashmere flannel silver chalk stripe on denim base | Shirt - Ascot Chang Thomas Mason “Silver Line” white poplin for GW | Tie - Drakes cashmere 7cm | PS - Facconable red on ecru base gingham silk | Wheels - John Lobb “City II” in Pewtere suede on 7000 last for Leather Soul

* From the archives as uncovered by a new follower

With winter approaching in the northern hemisphere, I’ve been receiving a few messages about scarves. I prefer the sweater.

* Re-post from winter 2011

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How do you wear a scarf?

You can’t, but you can wear a sweater.. Since last winter 2010 I have been receiving emails/messages why I wear a sweater around my shoulder like a scarf & why not just wear a scarf.

Simply put, a sweater covers more of the shoulders & hence keeps me warmer. Oh, I can also wear it when in the office.

* Yes I forgot to pull in the side tabs hence pantaloons are hanging lower than optimum in the top picture

Details | Suit - P Johnson for GW | Shirt - Ascot Chan for GW | Tie & knit - Loro Piana cashmere | DubMunks - Carmina for The Armoury

Many messages about me planning a SUIT come back..

Not likely for work but if the occasion calls for it, then yes. I have always said dress to the context or event, & the other night was an awards night.

Back to denim!

Damn camera/collar gap ..

Lets go night street shooting..

Shell LongWongs & stripes

Nom nom nom .. Baby Panda ..

SURPRISE!

*Dang, my suit still fits 😉

120825 Conversation: My Friend & Tailor, Mr Patrick Johnson.

Thank you blazerandtie: for a dig from the past - this will keep “some” happy..

The beauty of bespoke - I am still saving up…

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Tailoring Tales

Like a menu in an Italian enoteca.. Cloth except for wine..

Hector (pooch) likes the choice..

What did I order?

Details: Cloth - Loro Piana “Zelander Flower” 100% naturally dyed wool. Blue with double window check in slate & tobacco

Jacket - 3 curved patch pocket, 2B SB, twin vent, soft shoulder, “kissing” 4 button surgeon cuffs, alabaster silk lining, hand finished option

Pantaloons - Flat front, button fly, belt-less + side tabs, on seam pockets & 5cm cuffs

Now the 4-6 week wait

Details: SC - MTM P Johnson, Shirt - Bespoke, Tie - Drakes (black & navy 2 tone silk knit), PS - Herringbone, Pantaloons - Incotex, Hoofs - “Dover” Edward Green for Leather Soul Hawaii