"It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle."
Ernest Hemingwayemail me if google hasn't got the answer..
So, understand the CONTEXT
Recently a few messages about why my change in style & this post from 2011 touched on it.
Simply put, I no longer work in a “suit & tie” environment - even the #1 of my company doesn’t wear a ”suit & tie”.
Which brings an interesting point - there was a time when a well tailored suit was akin to an armour to project power & status, when in todays world I see the reverse. Especially when the young or the uncomfortable are trying to assimilate #GrownManStyle when the experienced can see through their lack of gravitas.
I now see a reverse balance of power in professional settings, when the suits actually lose their composure.
My Mother & Sister are perfect examples, they dress with confidence in their own style.
Recently my Sister made a very relevant comment about the other “school mums” when she goes to pick up her daughter/son.. Why do “school mums” feel it necessary to always be in gym wear when it’s obvious they have not been or going to a gym. Consequently she receives a different attention.
So, understand the CONTEXT
Dress your age or your role in life - understand the CONTEXT
May I suggest you enjoy making mistakes & dress like a Young Man.
With the sudden change in seasons come rain & messages about appropriate footwear. Let’s be concise here, NO WELLIES in the CITY! & yes it’s OK to wear suede in the wet, just not consecutive days & make sure you allow them to dry out naturally.
Brought to you from the archives - this was circa 2011 but still very relevant
RAIN.. Then BUCKETS!
Notes: Suit & shirt - P Johnson, Tie - Loro Piana, PS - Herringbone, Boots - RM Williams, Umbrella - Fox
Suede in the rain.
Getting messages regarding the different should treatments I have for my Patrick Johnson suits - see below from the archives
Something for everyone
With Friday approaching, this was a good resurrection from a follower. Circa 2011.
Another Friday, another day for Business Casual
Even though it is the second day of spring - the air is still cool, hence the sweater.
When I find myself wearing a lot of similar tones, highlighting with the opposite tone in smaller dosages is the best way to balance the look. Such as the red toned silk pocket square & brown suede shoes.
Details | Knit - Loro Piana | Jacket (part of suit) - P johnson in Loro Piana wool/cashmere “gun check” for GW | PS - Tom Fucking Ford | Shirt - Ascot Chang in vintage Drakes private reserve shirting for GW (helps to know peeps) | Pantaloons - P Johnson in Loro Piana cotton fine pin cord for GW | DubMunks - Edward Green “Westminster” in Mole suede, 888 last in Dainite for Leather Soul | WatchClock - Panerai Radiomir #210
Peacocks & Turkeys
So apparently I ruffled some tough “anon” turkeys the other day regarding my 30 sec critique of indochino.com..
My 30 sec critique captured what would have been an all day shoot by “professionals”. Let’s take this another step. If you were selling a product, would you not make sure that it is represented in the best light?
Have a look at Ralph Lauren or J Crew for example, their campaigns capture a story & highlight their products in positive light. Surprisingly one can look at an older Ralph Lauren print media & still be swept away.
Actually, I challenge you to click on the WWIW tag & see if you find collar gaps etc. Also factor in that I do not have a team of stylists & “professionals” or a “fluffer”. It’s just me, a trash can as a tripod & 10 sec timer. Also I am not a model size.
Admittedly I am not as eloquent as Jesse, but that’s just me.
Here is a link to Jesses, post in softer lighting
So back to the above pic - here’s me after a long day in the saddle so to speak. In theory I have very difficult shoulders to fit & in practice should be exhibiting “collar gap” as my shoulders are sloped not square.
But as Patrick (P Johnson Tailors) & Ethan (ex PJ & now at The Armoury) have MostExerent “critical eye” & patience, they have ensured my jackets fit.
So there.. Anything else from the “anon” tough club as it appears they are the majority of the nay sayers & thank you to the other positive messages.
I will try & provide my assessment over time targeting mainly at industry folk as they SHOULD know better.
Please don’t send me pics for assessments as it is best to just sit back & lurk more.
Notes: SC & Shirt - P Johnson, Tie - vintage Hermes, PS - Kiton, Pantaloons - RL, Shoes - Carmina x The Armoury “Penny Loafers”
* please excuse the low par photography as I was bored & only had my iPhone4 at hand
** a new follower has re-blogged this from my archives (July 2011) & since then have made the rounds
When to go ROUGH!
Silk or linen pocket square? The opposite in texture to your tie is a good guide but not necessarily the gospel as the total balance is the deciding factor.
Today I chose to wear a cashmere tie with burnt ochre & mid blue flecks on a light blue base. The texture of the tie is borderline fine tweed so a red on ecru gingham silk pocket square was an unexpected choice.
Usually one would wear calf shoes with a classic suiting as this wool/cashmere chalk stripe - but as the great Prince Edward & Gianni Agnelli has shown, brown suede is a great combination.
Again, all this is built on a white poplin shirt for foundation.
Details | Shade | RayBan “round metal” | Suit - P Johnson in Ariston wool/cashmere flannel silver chalk stripe on denim base | Shirt - Ascot Chang Thomas Mason “Silver Line” white poplin for GW | Tie - Drakes cashmere 7cm | PS - Facconable red on ecru base gingham silk | Wheels - John Lobb “City II” in Pewtere suede on 7000 last for Leather Soul
* From the archives as uncovered by a new follower
With winter approaching in the northern hemisphere, I’ve been receiving a few messages about scarves. I prefer the sweater.
* Re-post from winter 2011
How do you wear a scarf?
You can’t, but you can wear a sweater.. Since last winter 2010 I have been receiving emails/messages why I wear a sweater around my shoulder like a scarf & why not just wear a scarf.
Simply put, a sweater covers more of the shoulders & hence keeps me warmer. Oh, I can also wear it when in the office.
* Yes I forgot to pull in the side tabs hence pantaloons are hanging lower than optimum in the top picture
Details | Suit - P Johnson for GW | Shirt - Ascot Chan for GW | Tie & knit - Loro Piana cashmere | DubMunks - Carmina for The Armoury
Many messages about me planning a SUIT come back..
Not likely for work but if the occasion calls for it, then yes. I have always said dress to the context or event, & the other night was an awards night.
Back to denim!
Thank you blazerandtie: for a dig from the past - this will keep “some” happy..
The beauty of bespoke - I am still saving up…
Like a menu in an Italian enoteca.. Cloth except for wine..
Hector (pooch) likes the choice..
What did I order?
Details: Cloth - Loro Piana “Zelander Flower” 100% naturally dyed wool. Blue with double window check in slate & tobacco
Jacket - 3 curved patch pocket, 2B SB, twin vent, soft shoulder, “kissing” 4 button surgeon cuffs, alabaster silk lining, hand finished option
Pantaloons - Flat front, button fly, belt-less + side tabs, on seam pockets & 5cm cuffs
Now the 4-6 week wait
Details: SC - MTM P Johnson, Shirt - Bespoke, Tie - Drakes (black & navy 2 tone silk knit), PS - Herringbone, Pantaloons - Incotex, Hoofs - “Dover” Edward Green for Leather Soul Hawaii