"It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle."
Ernest Hemingwayemail me if google hasn't got the answer..
That “nice pochette” is >10 years old from Comme des Garcons..
* I change the reason for using it all the time, when local it is for change & when travelling it is for ? I’ve used to carry devices before there were iPod/Phones.. Think back to Sony MD player!
Thursday Guido (nice pochette)
I just want to highlight the vintage Japanese kimono cloth used for my pocket square made by a very good friend who is about to launch his own private label goods..
Have I mentioned before that I love a knit tie - as long as it has a beautiful knot!
I can’t stand mingy ties and mingy knots on a man.
Shape, Drape or Both?
Both is possible & preferable in my opinion - too many are trapped into thinking that tight fitting means shape.. When it is actually the opposite.
See how my jacket still has shape even not button up.
How is this possible?
Start with the shoulders then working down to the cuff:
So as it starts to warm up, ”airforce blue” is always a great option to wearing navy or grey. Especially if there is some mohair in the mix. This suit is totally different in direct light, it’s like DISCO! So one has to ensure the other components are subtle.
You want to make sure the over all effect does not compete but look ”natural”.
The oncoming eye should not be competing for any detail..
So DITCH the H belt or novelty cuff links..
Details | Suit - P Johnson in Loro Piana wool/mohair for GW | Shirt - P Johnson in Thomas Mason for GW | Knit tie - Drakes (this one is a mix of black & navy) | PS - vintage Japanese kimono cloth | DubMunks - John Lobb 2010 St Crepin for Leather Soul for GW
* My Sistah just enjoys PHOTO BOMBING!
** FYI - I am standing 3m away from the camera whilst my Sistah is 1.5m
Had to meet a new stake holder today to set the tone for my no nonsense approach rooted in ‘old school’ charm..
I have been briefed that all have failed before - great!
Details | Suit - P Johnson in Huddersfield summer worsted wool for GW | Shirt - Ascot Chang in Thomas Mason for GW | Tie - Herringbone | PS - vintage Japanese Kimono cloth | Hoofs - John Lobb Prestige “Phillip II” on 7000 last for Leather Soul for GW
Mondays are coming around faster as I get older..
Details | Suit - P Johnson in Loro Piana “Zelander” for GW | Shirt - Ascot Chang in Alumo twill for GW | Tie - Loro Piana not for GW | PS - Herringbone | Hoofs - Crocket & Jones “Belgrave”
Dang - have to go to the China Embassy to get my visa..
Monday (pensive looking) Guido this morning
Business Casual Friday
My company recently issued a new policy regarding what is considered expected business attire.
My favourite line.. NO CROCS
Details | Sports Coat - P Johnson Ariston denim coloured herringbone weave linen for GW | Shirt - Mystery Bespoke in Thomas Mason for GW | PS - Tom Fuking Ford | Pantaloons - P Johnson Loro Piana cotton fine cord for GW | Hoofs - Edward Green “Dover” on 606 Last for Leather Soul for GW
Lost my eyes - so the patterns maybe clashing as I went by touch..
Details | Suit & Shirt - P Johnson for GW | PS - Tom Fucking Ford | Tie - Loro Piana | Hoofs - Saint Crispin’s for Leather Soul for GW
COVER YOUR ASS
There is a common misconception that one should have the length of their jackets as short as possible to give the perception of hight via longer leg balance to shorter body. Unless you are a ‘hipster’ & going for that certain look that will make you cringe next season, don’t read on.
The same goes for the misconception of shorter men must avoid cuffs with pants.
There is no actual quantum science or emperical measure as we are all blessed with different body proportions as shapes.
But in my opinion it is best to understand your body proportions & shape then adhere to some certain guidelines not rules to make you look your best:
As mentioned in an earlier post, Patrick Johnson (tailor) & I changed a few minor measurements with this suit to keep it as ‘classic’ as possible compared to my other suits.
What do we see?
Other than the grey suit looking more English & the navy chalk looking more Italian - see the difference.
Where the (sleeve) ends
"My method" as no tailor I know uses this but agree it works for me
Now have a look at the full body shots & see the consistency & the effects this gives me.
Is there a natural flow from shoulder to arm to wrist point & where the jacket finishes.
Finally - if your jacket body is too short (as in not covering your ass), your sleeves will look too long & hence throw the whole visual proportions out & the above will make no impact.
FWIW I am:
The most important message - find a GOOD tailor that you connect with & TRUST him or her.
Details | Suit - P Johnson for GW | Shirt - Ascot Chang for GW | PS - Facconable | Tie - 15 YEAR OLD Channel (sheesh I have an old passport picture of me wearing this same tie) | Hoofs - John Lobb “Phillip II” on 7000 last for Leather Soul
Look into my eyes - I will put you to sleep with my Grown Man Style..
It’s spring & 2 months from when I said last week of flannel..
Details | Suit - P Johnson in Ariston wool/cashmere flannel for GW | Shirt - P johnson in Thomas Mason for GW | Tie - Loro Piana cashmere | PS - vintage Japanese kimono cloth | Hoofs - John Lobb “City II” in Pewter suede on 7000 last for Leather Soul for GW | specs - vintage from Shanghai
4 days of 2011 Rugby World Cup & no Nephew or Niece means more toys!
Details | Specs - US$5 vintage from Shanghai! | Shirt - Mystery bespoke | Dungarees - ACL x Tellason | Sneaks - Common Projects for Leather Soul | Watch - Rolex Explorer #14720 | Gun - NERF Special Forces ;)